The Slabs

(9 routes)

A pleasant area: sunny, sheltered from southerlies and often escaping the worst of the northerlies. Despite being less than vertical, these slabs are not all easy – the holds are small to compensate for the lack of angle. These climbs are tests of delicate footwork and mental control. Some bolts on top make it possible to top-rope these routes, but they are not beginners’ climbs.

Altitude: 
5m
Type: 
Boulder
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
1 Pedestal VE
0
Climb from the pedestal. Nice moves but be careful of the landing.
2 Left Left V0
3
The best route on the slabs. The landing is better than it used to be, but you still wouldn't want to fall off. After a few thin moves at one-third height, perfect holds materialise just as you need them. Top out straight up.
3 Right Left V0
0
An easy start leads to thought-provoking moves through the ledge and bulge. Finish on the rib bordering the chimney. Unlike the left-hand route on this slab, people have fallen off this route and survived.
4 Slab Chimney V0
0
This always seems to sucker people into thinking it is an easy climb. It is neither easy nor particularly pleasant. Most people get stuck at about half height and have a horrible grovel.
5 Cripple V1
1.02
Scary and uncompromising. The overhanging face and blunt arete on the right side of the chimney. No bridging for the grade.
6 Left Right V0
2.01
Classic. An excellent sequence uses a vague diagonal crack to gain a good flake about 3m up. Good, sometimes well-spaced holds follow.
7 Right Right V0
2.01
Sustained climbing on thin edges.
8 Slab Arete V0
1.02
A pleasant number. Climb just right of the arete using a series of horizontal breaks. Stay close to the arete – easier climbing lies further right but so does a bad landing. Mantle the ledge near the top: a secret hold around to the left makes this feel secure.
9 Seaward Slab VM
1.02
On the back (seaward) side of the boulder, climb the rib on the smooth-looking face. Beware slightly brittle rock.