The Slabs

(9 routes)

A pleasant area: sunny, sheltered from southerlies and often escaping the worst of the northerlies. Despite being less than vertical, these slabs are not all easy – the holds are small to compensate for the lack of angle. These climbs are tests of delicate footwork and mental control. Some bolts on top make it possible to top-rope these routes, but they are not beginners’ climbs.

Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
1 Pedestal VE
Climb from the pedestal. Nice moves but be careful of the landing.
2 Left Left V0
The best route on the slabs. The landing is better than it used to be, but you still wouldn't want to fall off. After a few thin moves at one-third height, perfect holds materialise just as you need them. Top out straight up.
3 Right Left V0
An easy start leads to thought-provoking moves through the ledge and bulge. Finish on the rib bordering the chimney. Unlike the left-hand route on this slab, people have fallen off this route and survived.
4 Slab Chimney V0
This always seems to sucker people into thinking it is an easy climb. It is neither easy nor particularly pleasant. Most people get stuck at about half height and have a horrible grovel.
5 Cripple V1
Scary and uncompromising. The overhanging face and blunt arete on the right side of the chimney. No bridging for the grade.
6 Left Right V0
Classic. An excellent sequence uses a vague diagonal crack to gain a good flake about 3m up. Good, sometimes well-spaced holds follow.
7 Right Right V0
Sustained climbing on thin edges.
8 Slab Arete V0
A pleasant number. Climb just right of the arete using a series of horizontal breaks. Stay close to the arete – easier climbing lies further right but so does a bad landing. Mantle the ledge near the top: a secret hold around to the left makes this feel secure.
9 Seaward Slab VM
On the back (seaward) side of the boulder, climb the rib on the smooth-looking face. Beware slightly brittle rock.