Seaward Boulder

(20 routes)

The Seaward Boulder offers a good variety of climbing, from easy to not so easy, with the Arete Route one of the finest climbs in Wellington. The rock is sometimes inaccessible at high tide or in big surf. It also occasionally suffers from swarms of midges. which settle on the leeward side, generally under bulges. These are quite harmless, so don't be afraid to climb right through them – just remember to keep your mouth shut!

Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Edit link
A The Girdle V1
The girdle traverse is well worth doing and requires some stamina. Start below the Descent Route and climb anticlockwise with some tasty sections: traversing the horizontal break on the west face, dropping down around the South East Arete, and finishing along the east face and up route 18.
Alan Rouse, 1986
1 Descent Route VE
The easiest way to the top, and the usual descent. The groove on the front of the boulder has a tricky move at the bottom, but is easy thereafter. Make sure you are comfortable down climbing this before you head up!
2 Tongue and Groove VM
Climb the groove then up the arete. Very nice. VE if you step right onto the ledge at the top of the groove.
3 Incut V0
Classic. Climb the overhanging face. At the top, veer left and continue up the juggy wall to the top of the boulder. There are numerous variations on this route – most holds have been eliminated in one combination or another.
4 North Arete V1
The arete on the right of the steep wall, starting with a big move to a triangular knob left of the arete. Superb. A pleasant sit start adds a grade or two.
5 Unnamed VM
Climb the left side of the west face. A tricky move going up and left over the bulge before getting onto good holds. Finish by moving right-wards up the face.
6 West Slab VM
Start at the same place as the previous route but veer right up the shallow groove.
7 Unnamed VM
Committing, Climb over the bulge using a series of sloping horizontal breaks and a big sidepull.
8 Unnamed VE
Climb the shallow corner.
9 Seaward Break V0
Climb up to a sloping horizontal break. Tricky moves lead up to the next horizontal break. Do not use the good edge on the left.
Dave Skilton, c1980s
10 South East Arete V0
An excellent climb on sea-scrubbed stone. Climb the right-trending pillar. Interesting step-ups between good holds.
11 South East Crack V0
Climb the crack just right of the arete, without using the footholds on the right.
12 South East Groove VM
Climb easily into the alcove, followed by airy bridging up and right into the upper corner.
13 Arete Direct V4
Climb into the alcove, then there are a few thin moves pulling over the bulge and onto the arete proper.
14 Seaward Arete V0
An amazing and classic route. Climb up the middle of the face to some good jugs. You can either go directly up to these or veer in from the right, which is slightly easier. Hand traverse left across the obvious break. Despite the high intimidation factor, some good holds make this relatively straightforward. Head straight up the arête on a series of superb holds. It’s possible to sneak off to the left if you get gripped at this point.
B East Face Traverse V1
Traverse the East Face in either direction (left to right is slightly easier).
15 East Face V0
Climb straight up the middle of the face. When it starts to get difficult, suck it in and continue straight up.
16 Fetch V0
Starting at the bottom of a short crack, head up to gain jugs.
17 Arete Indirect V0
A nice long route. Starting at the right edge of the face, climb diagonally left following a vague break, to join the Arete Route.
18 Backrush V0
Start at the right edge of the face and climb up, then slightly left. The top-out can be awkward.

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