By modern standards this wall is only just overhanging. However it has a number of excellent problems.
Routes
Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Pro | Quality | Operations |
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1 | 1Undercling Arête, V3 | V3 | ||||
Climb the left arête, using an undercling to get on to the slab, starting on the short face. |
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2 | 2The Far Side, V5 | V5 | ||||
Climb the face left of the crack; don’t use the crack (even for your feet). A more difficult sit-start has been done, the grade depends on the height of the sand. |
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3 | 3Left Side, V2 | V2 | ||||
Climb the wall left of the crack, on to the slab. |
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4 | 4Crack Route, V1 | V1 | ||||
Climb the crack, using good incuts. The king of strength, Nick Sutter, once campused this route ten times at the end of the day. Slab campus king! |
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5 | 5True Grit, V2 | V2 | ||||
A good eliminate on the left side of the pillar. |
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6 | 6The Pillar, V4 | V4 | ||||
A classic problem. Start on the big undercling then slap up the pillar using a series of opposing holds. There are numerous eliminates up this excellent feature. |
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7 | 7Sand in the Vaseline, V7 | V7 | ||||
Start on the big undercling. Using green circled holds, and nothing good for your feet, gain the rounded right-hand crimp below the top block. High step and rock up left to glory. |
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8 | 8Col's Pillar, V6 | V6 | ||||
As for the previous route, but from the right sloping sidepull, cross to the red circled diagonal edge, gain the large triangular pinch and dyno for the top of the block. No heel-hooking! |
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9 | 9Undercling Route, V0 | V0 | ||||
The obvious crack. Be careful when topping out up what can be the groove of doom. |
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10 | 10The Eliminator, V3 | V3 | ||||
Start French Perfection and finish up The Pillar. |
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11 | 11French Perfection, V2 | V2 | ||||
Some classic moves up the vague arête feature lead to jugs, and then the groove of doom. |
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12 | 12Tower Left-Hand Start, V3 | V3 | ||||
A thuggish little mother! Following a vague line of holds up the left side of the shield or rib feature. Exit as per The Tower. |
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13 | 13The Tower, V3 | V3 | ||||
Ultra mega! Start at the base of the blunt rib. Great moves head up left to a good edge. See if you can find the kneebar at mid-height. High up, head left to the lip. Mount the bulge onto the slab with care. |
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A | AOverhanging Wall Traverse, V3 | V3 | ||||
Starting as per The Tower, traverse left to the end of the wall on holds at head height. Finish around the corner. |
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B | BLow Traverse, V5 | V5 | ||||
Traverse about a foot below the holds of Overhanging Wall Traverse, using slopes, edges and side-pulls. |
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C | CSandstorm, V8 | V8 | ||||
Start 5m right of The Tower. Staying low and avoiding anything juggy, head left to join the Low Traverse. Climb this to the undercling on Sand In The Vaseline then exit as for that problem. Pumpy. |
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D | DRotary Pump, V4 | V4 | ||||
Take Overhanging Wall Traverse into Crack Route. From the top of the block on The Pillar, climb right and descend the lower half of The Tower. One lap is enough for most people. |