Overhanging Wall

(17 routes)

By modern standards this wall is only just overhanging. However it has a number of excellent problems.

Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
1 Undercling Arête V3
Climb the left arête, using an undercling to get on to the slab, starting on the short face.
2 The Far Side V5
Climb the face left of the crack; don’t use the crack (even for your feet). A more difficult sit-start has been done, the grade depends on the height of the sand.
Dave Orsman, 1994
3 Left Side V2
Climb the wall left of the crack, on to the slab.
4 Crack Route V1
Climb the crack, using good incuts. The king of strength, Nick Sutter, once campused this route ten times at the end of the day. Slab campus king!
5 True Grit V2
A good eliminate on the left side of the pillar.
6 The Pillar V4
A classic problem. Start on the big undercling then slap up the pillar using a series of opposing holds. There are numerous eliminates up this excellent feature.
Neil Parker
7 Sand in the Vaseline V7
Start on the big undercling. Using green circled holds, and nothing good for your feet, gain the rounded right-hand crimp below the top block. High step and rock up left to glory.
Chris Sanderson, 2003
8 Col's Pillar V6
As for the previous route, but from the right sloping sidepull, cross to the red circled diagonal edge, gain the large triangular pinch and dyno for the top of the block. No heel-hooking!
Colin Pohl
9 Undercling Route V0
The obvious crack. Be careful when topping out up what can be the groove of doom.
10 The Eliminator V3
Start French Perfection and finish up The Pillar.
Gary Wallace
11 French Perfection V2
Some classic moves up the vague arête feature lead to jugs, and then the groove of doom.
12 Tower Left-Hand Start V3
A thuggish little mother! Following a vague line of holds up the left side of the shield or rib feature. Exit as per The Tower.
13 The Tower V3
Ultra mega! Start at the base of the blunt rib. Great moves head up left to a good edge. See if you can find the kneebar at mid-height. High up, head left to the lip. Mount the bulge onto the slab with care.
Mike Rockell
A Overhanging Wall Traverse V3
Starting as per The Tower, traverse left to the end of the wall on holds at head height. Finish around the corner.
Mike Rockell, 1987
B Low Traverse V5
Traverse about a foot below the holds of Overhanging Wall Traverse, using slopes, edges and side-pulls.
Gary Wallace
C Sandstorm V8
Start 5m right of The Tower. Staying low and avoiding anything juggy, head left to join the Low Traverse. Climb this to the undercling on Sand In The Vaseline then exit as for that problem. Pumpy.
Matt Parker
D Rotary Pump V4
Take Overhanging Wall Traverse into Crack Route. From the top of the block on The Pillar, climb right and descend the lower half of The Tower. One lap is enough for most people.
Colin Pohl, 1990