Only the Good Die Young Wall

(14 routes)

The premier wall at Baring Head. While other walls may have harder climbs, none match the Only the Good Die Young Wall in terms of intimidation level, length and overall quality of the routes. High (seven metres), slightly overhanging and sustained, none of the routes are easy: climbing this wall is the mark of the true Baring Head climber. The wall was named in memory of Phil Herron, after a song by Billy Joel. Herron died aged 19 on the glacier below Torre Egger in Patagonia in 1977.

Altitude: 
1m
Type: 
Wall
Aspect: 
East
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
1 Arete Route V2 7m
2.01
Climb the wall just right of the arête, tending gently rightwards as you go. When you’re way above the no-fall zone, sneak out left to finish. A variant start uses the unusual downward-facing knob to move up left to the crescent jug. A more committing finish heads right on to Blind Ambition.
2 Blind Ambition V2 7m
2.01
Climb into and then past a tricky undercling feature (this can be much harder than V2 if the sand is low). From the horizontal seam (which this problem shares with the Arête Route) head gently rightwards then straight up via some long airy pulls.
Charlie Creese
3 The Direct V3 7m
3
A stunning line. Sustained climbing with the crux where it ought to be – a long way off the ground. Start as per Only the Good Die Young, however, instead of bailing right to the monster jug, avoid all juggy holds on the top half of the wall and exit straight up on some small edges.
Neil Parker, 1985
4 Only the Good Die Young V3 7m
3
Also called the Original Route. Follow the diagonal seam in the middle of the wall all the way to the top. A New Zealand classic.
Kevin Boekholt, 1977
5 High Flier V3 7m
1.02
A thin and sustained line between Only the Good Die Young and Tendon Tearer that eliminates all the big holds.
Phil Castle, 1992
6 Tendon Tearer V3 7m
3
Has some fingery moves low down (so it’s not just a clever name!). Starting in the vague alcove climb straight up on small holds to join Bullshit at the large jug. Exit as for that problem.
Mike Rockell
7 Bullshit V2 7m
3
Charlie Creese’s reply to Only the Good Die Young! After a couple of hard pulls straight off the ground, head up and left to a large jug at about 5 metres. After a rest here, use whatever you can to exit up the centre of the wall.
Charlie Creese, 1979
8 Indirect Start V3
1.02
Start standing in the back of the cave. A long blind reach left should get you to a good ledge. Head diagonally up and left via some precarious moves to finish up Bullshit. Watch the landing.
Mike Rockell
9 Fat Boys Can't Jump V5
0
Sit start under the Raw Terror roof on two small underclings then do three or four hand movements to the good ledge/flat hold to finish.
Derek Thatcher
10 Fatism V8
0
A lower, harder sit start to Fat Boys.
John Palmer, 2004
A High Traverse V3
0
Climb Bullshit to the high jug, then traverse left to the arete.
Rob Gray
B Mid Traverse V3
0
Climb the first moves of Bullshit, then traverse left and finish up the Arête Route.
Rob Gray
C Figure Eight V4
0
Baffling. Climb Bullshit into High Traverse, downclimb Only the Good Die Young into Mid Traverse, then up Arête Route, back right along High Traverse, down Only the Good Die Young (again) and back along Mid Traverse to where you began. Got that?
Rob Gray
D Only the Good Die Young Wall Traverse V6
0
Start as per Indirect Start but stay low and traverse the entire length of the wall. Originally done left to right though now normally done right to left. Harder, lower variants exist. Good link-ups: 1. into Tendon Tearer 2. into The Direct (this is the Powerband, FA Gary Wallace 1995).
Charlie Creese