Long Wall Swinging Dyno

(14 routes)

Classic Baring Head country: committing routes and intricate variations.

Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
1 Pocket Route V3
An excellent route. Be careful of the landing as there is a little island of rock on the right which is often only thinly covered. Delightful moves lead up and right to a jug and a good pod. Gain the weird two-finger pocket-type hold and make a big move to the good ledge above. Exit direct.
2 Dave Skiltons Problem V5
Committing. Veer up and left to the bulge. Grope over the bulge for a vague edge in the middle of the scoop. Continue up right using some passable holds, finishing with a high step-up onto the scoop.
Dave Skilton, 1985
3 Check Your Head V10
AKA ‘The Scoop’. A classic problem that requires good footwork, subtle movements and fingers of steel.
Sebastian Loewensteijn, 2000
4 Pinch Route V2
Slightly freaky. Using a wide pinch below the lip, step high to reach some semi-okay holds. Top out stright up.
Neil Parker, 1991
5 Bailer V2
Climb the right half of the scoop to a large rounded feature. Step high to a couple of small holds straight above. Top out veering right.
6 Leap For It V2
Some stiff cranking more or less up and over the small bulge.
7 Dynamic Tension V3
Start up Leap For It and traverse right across the bulge to finish up the right-hand exit of Swinging Dyno.
Phil Castle, 1995
Swing For It V2
Start up Leap For It and climb across to the finishing moves of Triple Dyno.
Phil Castle, 1992
8 Triple Dyno V1
A classic eliminate problem. Never seems to involve any dynoing!
Christian For A Minute V6
Eliminates various holds from Triple Dyno. The best style is to do all moves statically.
Colin Pohl, 1988
9 Swinging Dyno V2
A bit more beef (or tofu) required.
10 Super Direct V6
As for Swinging Dyno but instead of using the large jug at the top left, use the green circled hold instead and rock, rock, rock to glory.
Neil Parker, 1990
Right-Hand Exit V2
Climb Swinging Dyno until you've got the big right-hand rib-jug above the bulge, the continue diagonally up and right.
The Beast V5
The eliminate right-hand finish to Swinging Dyno.
Gary Wallace