Classic Baring Head country: committing routes and intricate variations.
Altitude:
2m
Type:
Wall
Aspect:
West

Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Quality | Bolts | Gone | Natural pro | Link to edit content | ||
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1 | Pocket Route | V3 |
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An excellent route. Be careful of the landing as there is a little island of rock on the right which is often only thinly covered. Delightful moves lead up and right to a jug and a good pod. Gain the weird two-finger pocket-type hold and make a big move to the good ledge above. Exit direct.
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2 | Dave Skiltons Problem | V5 |
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Committing. Veer up and left to the bulge. Grope over the bulge for a vague edge in the middle of the scoop. Continue up right using some passable holds, finishing with a high step-up onto the scoop.
Dave Skilton, 1985
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3 | Check Your Head | V10 |
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AKA ‘The Scoop’. A classic problem that requires good footwork, subtle movements and fingers of steel.
Sebastian Loewensteijn, 2000
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4 | Pinch Route | V2 |
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Slightly freaky. Using a wide pinch below the lip, step high to reach some semi-okay holds. Top out stright up.
Neil Parker, 1991
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5 | Bailer | V2 |
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Climb the right half of the scoop to a large rounded feature. Step high to a couple of small holds straight above. Top out veering right.
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6 | Leap For It | V2 |
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Some stiff cranking more or less up and over the small bulge.
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7 | Dynamic Tension | V3 |
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Start up Leap For It and traverse right across the bulge to finish up the right-hand exit of Swinging Dyno.
Phil Castle, 1995
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Swing For It | V2 |
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Start up Leap For It and climb across to the finishing moves of Triple Dyno.
Phil Castle, 1992
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8 | Triple Dyno | V1 |
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A classic eliminate problem. Never seems to involve any dynoing!
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Christian For A Minute | V6 |
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Eliminates various holds from Triple Dyno. The best style is to do all moves statically.
Colin Pohl, 1988
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9 | Swinging Dyno | V2 |
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A bit more beef (or tofu) required.
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10 | Super Direct | V6 |
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As for Swinging Dyno but instead of
using the large jug at the top left, use
the green circled hold instead and rock,
rock, rock to glory.
Neil Parker, 1990
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Right-Hand Exit | V2 |
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Climb Swinging Dyno until you've got the big right-hand rib-jug above the bulge, the continue diagonally up and right.
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The Beast | V5 |
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The eliminate right-hand finish to Swinging Dyno.
Gary Wallace
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