Long Wall Left

(10 routes)

The Long Wall is the most popular wall at Baring Head. Facing west, it catches the afternoon sun so is normally dry and pleasant. It offers a variety of routes and a mixture of grades from easy (right end) to harder (left end).

Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
A Long Wall Traverse VM
Start at the toe of the left arĂȘte, traverse the entire length of the Long Wall. Difficulty depends on how far up or down the wall you traverse. Most people stay close to the sand. Great for warming up or cooling down.
1 Right Break V1
Climb up slab right of the arete, veering right over the bulge. Gain a horizontal break above the bulge and exit into the sunlight.
2 Love Bite V6
Go straight over the blankest part of the bulge. From two small slots in the horizontal break reach very high for a sharp one-finger edge (the first ascent was all about the mono crank). Step high to reach some small holds then pull over the bulge. V4 if you use the mono as a sidepull (beta
Dave Orsman, 1995
3 Where Are They Now V3
Right of Love Bite, use a good hold to get over the bulge.
4 Up V4
Climb the blank face between the two cracks.
Dave Orsman, 1994
5 The Lost Boys V7
Very thin. Climbs the blank wall left of Dingle. Find a sharp pinch on the left, then reach high over the bulge for a tiny edge. Step up and slap for the horizontal.
Dave Orsman, 1995
6 Graeme Dingle's Last Great Problem V0
Not sure whether it is or not but it makes a good story. Climb the obvious groove/crack. An excellent moderate highball with a variety of holds.
7 Neil's Arete V3
Climb the pillar using a series of side-pulls and high step-ups.
Neil Parker, 1984
8 Racing Neil V3
Start Neil's ArĂȘte, and finish Quickly Racing. The key is a gnarly undercling half-way up.
Neil Parker, 1990
9 Quickly Racing V3
From the good jug, make a long shoulder-popping reach left to a precarious gaston. Stabilise on a sloping edge then finish straight up.
Rob Gray, 1990