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Long Wall Left

Type
Part of

The Long Wall is the most popular wall at Baring Head. Facing west, it catches the afternoon sun so is normally dry and pleasant. It offers a variety of routes and a mixture of grades from easy (right end) to harder (left end).

Image
Aspect
West
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Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Operations
A ALong Wall Traverse, VM VM
0

  • P1
  • Hueco VM

Start at the toe of the left arête, traverse the entire length of the Long Wall. Difficulty depends on how far up or down the wall you traverse. Most people stay close to the sand. Great for warming up or cooling down.


1 1Right Break, V1 V1
2.01

  • P1
  • Hueco V1

Climb up slab right of the arete, veering right over the bulge. Gain a horizontal break above the bulge and exit into the sunlight.


2 2Love Bite, V6 V6
2.01

  • P1
  • Hueco V6

Go straight over the blankest part of the bulge. From two small slots in the horizontal break reach very high for a sharp one-finger edge (the first ascent was all about the mono crank). Step high to reach some small holds then pull over the bulge. V4 if you use the mono as a sidepull (beta


3 3Where Are They Now, V3 V3
2.01

  • P1
  • Hueco V3

Right of Love Bite, use a good hold to get over the bulge.


4 4Up, V4 V4
1.02

  • P1
  • Hueco V4

Climb the blank face between the two cracks.


5 5The Lost Boys, V7 V7
3

  • P1
  • Hueco V7

Very thin. Climbs the blank wall left of Dingle. Find a sharp pinch on the left, then reach high over the bulge for a tiny edge. Step up and slap for the horizontal.


6 6Graeme Dingle's Last Great Problem, V0 V0
2.01

  • P1
  • Hueco V0

Not sure whether it is or not but it makes a good story. Climb the obvious groove/crack. An excellent moderate highball with a variety of holds.


7 7Neil's Arete, V3 V3
2.01

  • P1
  • Hueco V3

Climb the pillar using a series of side-pulls and high step-ups.


8 8Racing Neil, V3 V3
0

  • P1
  • Hueco V3

Start Neil's Arête, and finish Quickly Racing. The key is a gnarly undercling half-way up.


9 9Quickly Racing, V3 V3
0

  • P1
  • Hueco V3

From the good jug, make a long shoulder-popping reach left to a precarious gaston. Stabilise on a sloping edge then finish straight up.


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