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Lean-To Rock

Type
Altitude
4m
Part of

The east side of the Lean-To Rock has the highest concentration of Baring Head’s harder eliminate problems. The routes on the west side have poor landings – beware!

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Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Operations
A ASpeeding Up, V7 V7
1.02

  • P1
  • Hueco V7

Begin right of the Stepping Out arete and traverse left, finishing on the ledge to the right of Loaded. Has also been climbed left to right.


1 1Stepping Out, V3 V3
3

  • P1
  • Hueco V3

An excellent route up the arete, with long moves between good holds.


 Showing Off, V5 V5
1.02

  • P1
  • Hueco V5

Start up Stepping Out and then into the final moves of A Show Of Strength.


 Mr Nice Guy, V9 V9
0

  • P1
  • Hueco V9

2 2A Show Of Strength, V8 V8
3

  • P1
  • Hueco V8

A classic Baring Head testpiece and the first boulder problem in New Zealand to be given V8. Starting 2m left of the arête, pull up and right to a narrow slot in the seam. Holding this, cross over with your left hand (crux) to the pod used on Stepping Out. Match, then make a committing move up and left to a sloper. Bring your other hand up then lunge for the top. Stay off the arête. If you avoid the cross-over, you only get 7 points.


 Le Special, V9 V9
0

  • P1
  • Hueco V9

This problem links Speeding Up into A Show Of Strength. Sustained crimping.


3 3Power, Corruption and Lies, V9 V9
1.02

  • P1
  • Hueco V9

This problem eliminates the pod on A Show Of Strength. Instead of crossing over from the vertical slot, make a hard move left to a small crimp. Move your right hand up above the pod to a sloping seam then snatch to the sloper. Match and finish direct.


 La Connexion, V10 V10
0

  • P1
  • Hueco V10

If you get bored, try linking Speeding Up into Power, Corruption and Lies.


4 4Tango With The Tumbleweeds, V7 V7
1.02

  • P1
  • Hueco V7

Climb the wall immediately right of the crack on tiny holds. Finish up Loaded (always with hands and feet right of the crack). Better than you might think.


 The Label Man, V8 V8
0

  • P1
  • Hueco V8

As for Tango, but eliminate the large flat jug near the crack, just past the Tango crux, for hands and feet.


5 5Loaded, V5 V5
1.02

  • P1
  • Hueco V5

Start up the obvious crack. Once at the rounded lip, move right under the bulge and climb straight up.


6 6Awkward Crack, V0 V0
0

  • P1
  • Hueco V0

Climb the short but awkward crack to some good holds.


7 7Right Leaning, VM VM
1.02

  • P1
  • Hueco VM

Starts easily. The handholds over the bulge are poor but there are good footholds. Concentrate on the feet.


8 8Leaning In, VM VM
0

  • P1
  • Hueco VM

Thin moves lead over the bulge. The key is a good side-pull high on the left.


9 9Beautiful Edges, V0 V0
1.02

  • P1
  • Hueco V0

A beautiful series of edges in the crack.


10 10Leaning Crack, V0 V0
0

  • P1
  • Hueco V0

Straight up the slightly concave face. Precarious moves using a thin crack lead to a small horizontal break. Finish straight up, avoiding the edge on the left (VM if you do use it).


11 11North Slab, VE VE
0

  • P1
  • Hueco VE

An easy climb. Try without your hands.


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