The east side of the Lean-To Rock has the highest concentration of Baring Head’s harder eliminate problems. The routes on the west side have poor landings – beware!
Altitude:
4m
Type:
Boulder

Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Quality | Bolts | Gone | Natural pro | Link to edit content | ||
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A | Speeding Up | V7 |
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Begin right of the Stepping Out arete and traverse left, finishing on the ledge to the right of Loaded. Has also been climbed left to right.
Steve Conn, 1999
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1 | Stepping Out | V3 |
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An excellent route up the arete, with long moves between good holds.
Charlie Creese
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Showing Off | V5 |
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Start up Stepping Out and then into the final moves of A Show Of Strength.
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Mr Nice Guy | V9 |
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2 | A Show Of Strength | V8 |
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A classic Baring Head testpiece and
the first boulder problem in New
Zealand to be given V8. Starting 2m
left of the arête, pull up and right to
a narrow slot in the seam. Holding
this, cross over with your left hand
(crux) to the pod used on Stepping
Out. Match, then make a committing
move up and left to a sloper. Bring
your other hand up then lunge for
the top. Stay off the arête. If you
avoid the cross-over, you only get 7
points.
Charlie Creese, 1981
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Le Special | V9 |
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This problem links Speeding Up into A
Show Of Strength. Sustained crimping.
Sebastian Loewensteijn
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3 | Power, Corruption and Lies | V9 |
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This problem eliminates the pod on A
Show Of Strength. Instead of crossing
over from the vertical slot, make a hard
move left to a small crimp. Move your
right hand up above the pod to a sloping
seam then snatch to the sloper. Match
and finish direct.
Steve Conn, 1999
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La Connexion | V10 |
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If you get bored, try linking Speeding Up
into Power, Corruption and Lies.
John Palmer, 2012
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4 | Tango With The Tumbleweeds | V7 |
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Climb the wall immediately right of the
crack on tiny holds. Finish up Loaded
(always with hands and feet right of the
crack). Better than you might think.
Derek Thatcher
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The Label Man | V8 |
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As for Tango, but eliminate the large flat jug near the crack, just past the Tango crux, for hands and feet.
Steve Conn, 1999
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5 | Loaded | V5 |
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Start up the obvious crack. Once at the
rounded lip, move right under the bulge
and climb straight up.
Gary Wallace, 1997
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6 | Awkward Crack | V0 |
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Climb the short but awkward crack to some good holds.
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7 | Right Leaning | VM |
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Starts easily. The handholds over the bulge are poor but there are good footholds. Concentrate on the feet.
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8 | Leaning In | VM |
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Thin moves lead over the bulge. The key is a good side-pull high on the left.
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9 | Beautiful Edges | V0 |
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A beautiful series of edges in the crack.
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10 | Leaning Crack | V0 |
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Straight up the slightly concave face. Precarious moves using a thin crack lead to a small horizontal break. Finish straight up, avoiding the edge on the left (VM if you do use it).
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11 | North Slab | VE |
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An easy climb. Try without your hands.
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