The east side of the Lean-To Rock has the highest concentration of Baring Head’s harder eliminate problems. The routes on the west side have poor landings – beware!
Routes
Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Pro | Quality | Operations |
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A | ASpeeding Up, V7 | V7 | ||||
Begin right of the Stepping Out arete and traverse left, finishing on the ledge to the right of Loaded. Has also been climbed left to right. |
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1 | 1Stepping Out, V3 | V3 | ||||
An excellent route up the arete, with long moves between good holds. |
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Showing Off, V5 | V5 | |||||
Start up Stepping Out and then into the final moves of A Show Of Strength. |
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Mr Nice Guy, V9 | V9 | |||||
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2 | 2A Show Of Strength, V8 | V8 | ||||
A classic Baring Head testpiece and the first boulder problem in New Zealand to be given V8. Starting 2m left of the arête, pull up and right to a narrow slot in the seam. Holding this, cross over with your left hand (crux) to the pod used on Stepping Out. Match, then make a committing move up and left to a sloper. Bring your other hand up then lunge for the top. Stay off the arête. If you avoid the cross-over, you only get 7 points. |
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Le Special, V9 | V9 | |||||
This problem links Speeding Up into A Show Of Strength. Sustained crimping. |
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3 | 3Power, Corruption and Lies, V9 | V9 | ||||
This problem eliminates the pod on A Show Of Strength. Instead of crossing over from the vertical slot, make a hard move left to a small crimp. Move your right hand up above the pod to a sloping seam then snatch to the sloper. Match and finish direct. |
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La Connexion, V10 | V10 | |||||
If you get bored, try linking Speeding Up into Power, Corruption and Lies. |
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4 | 4Tango With The Tumbleweeds, V7 | V7 | ||||
Climb the wall immediately right of the crack on tiny holds. Finish up Loaded (always with hands and feet right of the crack). Better than you might think. |
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The Label Man, V8 | V8 | |||||
As for Tango, but eliminate the large flat jug near the crack, just past the Tango crux, for hands and feet. |
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5 | 5Loaded, V5 | V5 | ||||
Start up the obvious crack. Once at the rounded lip, move right under the bulge and climb straight up. |
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6 | 6Awkward Crack, V0 | V0 | ||||
Climb the short but awkward crack to some good holds. |
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7 | 7Right Leaning, VM | VM | ||||
Starts easily. The handholds over the bulge are poor but there are good footholds. Concentrate on the feet. |
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8 | 8Leaning In, VM | VM | ||||
Thin moves lead over the bulge. The key is a good side-pull high on the left. |
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9 | 9Beautiful Edges, V0 | V0 | ||||
A beautiful series of edges in the crack. |
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10 | 10Leaning Crack, V0 | V0 | ||||
Straight up the slightly concave face. Precarious moves using a thin crack lead to a small horizontal break. Finish straight up, avoiding the edge on the left (VM if you do use it). |
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11 | 11North Slab, VE | VE | ||||
An easy climb. Try without your hands. |