Lean-To Rock

(17 routes)

The east side of the Lean-To Rock has the highest concentration of Baring Head’s harder eliminate problems. The routes on the west side have poor landings – beware!

Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
A Speeding Up V7
Begin right of the Stepping Out arete and traverse left, finishing on the ledge to the right of Loaded. Has also been climbed left to right.
Steve Conn, 1999
1 Stepping Out V3
An excellent route up the arete, with long moves between good holds.
Charlie Creese
Showing Off V5
Start up Stepping Out and then into the final moves of A Show Of Strength.
Mr Nice Guy V9
2 A Show Of Strength V8
A classic Baring Head testpiece and the first boulder problem in New Zealand to be given V8. Starting 2m left of the arête, pull up and right to a narrow slot in the seam. Holding this, cross over with your left hand (crux) to the pod used on Stepping Out. Match, then make a committing move up and left to a sloper. Bring your other hand up then lunge for the top. Stay off the arête. If you avoid the cross-over, you only get 7 points.
Charlie Creese, 1981
Le Special V9
This problem links Speeding Up into A Show Of Strength. Sustained crimping.
Sebastian Loewensteijn
3 Power, Corruption and Lies V9
This problem eliminates the pod on A Show Of Strength. Instead of crossing over from the vertical slot, make a hard move left to a small crimp. Move your right hand up above the pod to a sloping seam then snatch to the sloper. Match and finish direct.
Steve Conn, 1999
La Connexion V10
If you get bored, try linking Speeding Up into Power, Corruption and Lies.
John Palmer, 2012
4 Tango With The Tumbleweeds V7
Climb the wall immediately right of the crack on tiny holds. Finish up Loaded (always with hands and feet right of the crack). Better than you might think.
Derek Thatcher
The Label Man V8
As for Tango, but eliminate the large flat jug near the crack, just past the Tango crux, for hands and feet.
Steve Conn, 1999
5 Loaded V5
Start up the obvious crack. Once at the rounded lip, move right under the bulge and climb straight up.
Gary Wallace, 1997
6 Awkward Crack V0
Climb the short but awkward crack to some good holds.
7 Right Leaning VM
Starts easily. The handholds over the bulge are poor but there are good footholds. Concentrate on the feet.
8 Leaning In VM
Thin moves lead over the bulge. The key is a good side-pull high on the left.
9 Beautiful Edges V0
A beautiful series of edges in the crack.
10 Leaning Crack V0
Straight up the slightly concave face. Precarious moves using a thin crack lead to a small horizontal break. Finish straight up, avoiding the edge on the left (VM if you do use it).
11 North Slab VE
An easy climb. Try without your hands.