Alcove Wall

(12 routes)

Alcove Wall is really the right end of the Only the Good Die Young Wall. The left side is steep and hard; a spotter is recommended. The centre has high problems above a poor landing; don't fall off. The right side features easier, still high routes above deep sand.

Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
A Alcove Traverse V5
Starting at Alcove Corner, traverse the wall to end up on the starting hold of Raw Terror.
B The Great Journey V6
Continue the Alcove Traverse along the Only the Good Die Young Traverse for a very substantial trek.
Nick Sutter
1 Raw Terror V6
One of Baring Head's steepest routes. Starting on the big jug in the middle of the roof, battle upward, staying on the overhanging wall. Do not use the wall on your right., nor the juggy undercling. After five or six moves, head left to a pinch on the left arete (about 40cm above the undercling), cross over to a positive two-finger pocket for the right hand and then pull around onto the slab. A spotter is advisable.
Gary Wallace, 1995
Kellermeister V6
As for Raw Terror but force yourself to stay on the overhanging wall until it peters out, requiring you to slap for the juggy ledge feature at the top. Drop off or top out.
Sebastian Loewensteijn, 1998
Escape from the Cuddly-Bears V7
A Raw Terror eliminate. Don't use the pinch out left above the overlap and take a good spotter.
Derek Thatcher
2 Playing with Knives V5
Sit start with hands in the crack and crimp your way up until feet are standing on the slab.
Dave Kopp
3 One Inch Punch V5
A test of power and cunning. Climb the hanging arête feature from a low start on the obvious triangular jug. Don't use the slab below this for hand, feet, or any other body part. Contrived, but worth one burn.
Sebastian Loewensteijn, 1998
4 Layback Flake V0
Delightful, but gets harder near the top as the flake peters out. Either do a committing move up and left to a good jug, or finish up Alcove Wall.
5 Alcove Wall VM
Climb the wall left of the corner. At about two-thirds height, veer left and lay off a good flake (a bit committing).
6 Alcove Corner VE
Climb the low-angle corner.
7 Alcove Edge VM
Start at a flake in the centre of the face and climb just right of the arête. Good flakes around the arête give some pleasant moves.
8 Pip VM
Strenuous moves up the right side of the wall lead to good jugs at two-thirds height.