Chunderosa Buttress

(18 routes)


Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
Stolen Moments 20 20m
On the buttress of rock 30m to the left of Chunderosa Buttress. Climb the overhanging red corner. 9 bolts. TBC belay.
Bryce Martin, Anthony Willmott 9-3-96
Chicken 20 6m
Up the hill behind Chunderosa Buttress. A boulder problem that is hard to walk by on a small boulder opposite Waiting for Dave. Has 1 bolt for the less bold.
Bryce Martin 21-4-91
Waiting For Dave 17 8m
Starts climbing from the top of a large spike up past 2 naked bolts. Good finishing moves. Belay off a large gorse bush. Walk off.
Bryce Martin, Dave Garrity 21-4-91
Horus 15 20m
8bolts wire representing trad
The first route on the far left-hand end of Chunderosa Buttress. Climb the corner to the left of the big cave (wires for protection). Go left under the roof and cross over the arete, then up the wall. It's possible to avoid the natural pro section by starting around to the left and just climbing the wall. Finish up the headwall to the right of the last bolt. DBC belay.
Dave Garrity, Bryce Martin, 6 October 1991
Arms Control 24 20m
A seriously overhanging route, with an even steeper crux section. Climb through the roof at the highest point (crux) then straight up to a TBC belay.
Bryce Martin, 6 April 1991
Ball ‘N Chain 20 20m
Simply superb. Climb the narrow pillar then veer left to the ledges, finishing straight up through a second overhanging section to a DBC belay, 10 bolts.
Bryce Martin, Dave Garrity 20-4-91
Cry Wolf 23 25m
Excellent technical climbing on pockets to the DBC belay. A crack continues above this belay, take small friends and a brush if you want to do this section.
Bryce Martin, Dave Garrity, 6 January 1991
Canard 18 25m
Amazing that such a steep climb goes at grade 18, but the grade is bona fide, 8 bolts that pop up just where you need them. A DBC belay just below the very exposed finish, gives those who don’t feel like doing the crux move with its slung bollard for pro, a chance to bail. DBC belay.
Dave Garrity, Bryce Martin 6-4-91
Galapagos 20 18m
A stunning line when seen from edge on, this overhanging wall just cleaves the sky. Climb straight up past 3 bolts, then go diagonally left past 2 bolts to a ledge. You can clip a bolt on Canard before stepping right again onto the face. The next placement is a sling before mantling left to the Belay. Very sustained climbing on big holds, 7 bolts DBC belay
Bryce Martin, Dave Garrity 17-5-91
Hebe 17 30m
A long, easy arete - just the type of climbing Dave loves. Now rebolted with 15 bolts. DBC belay. Watch the abseil back down as the route is over the 25m long.
Dave Garrity, Bryce Martin, 21 April 1991
School Bus Route 19 35m
Climb up past 8 bolts to the sloping ledge at 25m. Finish up the crack as for Hebe, DBC belay at the top, 14 bolts in total. Make sure your ropes reach the ground and will pull through before rapping off, or you will have a long walk back to the top.
Bryce Martin, Cliff Ellery, Dean Maxwell 29-11-91
Hotter Than a Very Hot Thing 21 30m
10m left of Hannah Louise. The crux is about 2/3 of the way up above a ledge. A fine climb for Ross’ first new route. DBC belay. [Pro 14 bolts)
Ross McGarva, Bryce Martin 17-3-91
Aurum 18 25m
Starts up the yellow lichen staying out on the arete. The crux is just above the 6th bolt, which it shares with Hotter Than A Very Hot Thing. This is the only bolt with a hanger. 6 naked bolts and 1 with a hanger. Belay as for Hotter Than A Very Hot Thing. Rebolted 2015 now has 14 bolts.
Dave Garrity, Bryce Martin 4-9-91
Carpe Diem 17 30m
The first three to four metres of climbing is on soft rock but the rest is solid. DBC belay. Watch your rope length on the descent.
Dave Garrity, Bryce Martin, Bolke Water, 4 August 1991
Hannah Louise 18 30m
8bolts wire representing trad
The long narrow groove on the east side of Chunderosa Buttress. It's possible but not necessary to place some mid sized wires for extra protection near the top. There is a DBC belay on the lip that makes the descent easier – but you should still do the full finish and pull over onto the summit. Watch your rope length on the descent.
Bryce Martin, John Jamieson, Bev Birnie, 17 March 1991
Curly Top 20 25m
Starts up the grove right of Hannah Louise. Skirt the cave on the LHS to the roof. Climb directly through the roof using the large pocket to reach through to the belay on the right. 9 bolts and a TBC belay.
Bryce Martin, Cliff Ellery 27-7-97
Burning Rain 16 18m
Once just another abandoned project: Ross McGarva partly cleaned and bolted this line before departing for Christchurch. Three guesses who finished it off... DBC belay at the ledge.
Bryce Martin, Dave Garrity, 30 August 1991
East Weesy 15 12m
What it says on the tin. DBC belay.