Wacky Wall

(13 routes)

The track comes out 15m left of the chimney Dirty Dave Does It Again.

Type: 
Wall
Aspect: 
West
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Edit link
Inclination 18 20m
1.02
5bolts
Down at the other end of the cliff about 20 m to the left of the access track. Climb the steep headwall left of the Declination, pulling up on big holds to the slab. 5 bolts and a DBC belay.
Kevin Barratt 13-9-98
Declination 16 20m
0
2bolts wire representing trad
Start in the deep corner/cave, climb up through the chimney (crux) then clip the bolt at the edge. You may be able to place some wires in the crack below the first bolt. Exit the chimney onto a slab and another bolt, then easy moves up the slab (can be protected with mid-size wires) past the final bolt to a DBC belay.
Kevin Barratt, Cliff Ellery 5-9-98
Sunset Slab 17 20m
1.02
6bolts
Start up the arete to the right of Declination, then delicate face moves up a steep slab. Try to stay on line for the highest point on the rock. 6 bolts and a belay from gorse bushes.
Dave Garrity, Bryce Martin 5-10-98
Lost Gumboot Groove 17 15m
1.02
4bolts
The thin snaking crack about 15 m left of the chimney. Bridge past the groove at the bottom, up to the headwall (crux). 4 bolts and a DBC belay.
David Hood, Dave Garrity, Bryce Martin 5-10-98
Dirty Dave Does It Again 14 10m
0
wire representing trad
A classic chimney reminiscent of the bottom pitch of Tibia. Gain the chimney by bridging up the corner, placing a mid sized wire as your only piece of protection. The chimney is a tight fit, so knee and arm bars are the way to go. DBC belay.
Dave Garrity, Michael Camilleri 3-10-98
Handle With Care 18 12m
0
5bolts
Bridge the shallow groove, using the arete for hand-holds. Bridge into the corner at the top. 5 bolts and a DBC belay.
Bryce Martin, Cliff Ellery 13-9-98
Summit Lust 18 15m
0
6bolts
Climb the black streak. Easiest to start low down from the right. The crux is between the 3rd and 4th bolt. 6 bolts and a DBC belay.
Bryce Martin, Cliff Ellery 13-9-98
Jacinta Gilbert 16 15m
1.02
6bolts
Start on the RH side of the arete up the steep wall, and move left on to the arete. The crux is near the top. Six bolts and a DBC belay.
David Hood, Cliff Ellery, Kevin Barratt 5-9-98
Mates Rates 19 15m
0
6bolts
Climb the steep face, using the arete. The crux is crossing over to the RH arete near the top. Six bolts and a DBC belay.
Bryce Martin, Michael Camilleri 2-4-98
Back ‘N Foot 16 20m
0
6bolts
Walk 20m to the right to an imposing overhanging wall. The chimney at the left of the wall. Climb the honeycombed curving corner. Some of the honeycombed rock is a bit brittle. Six bolts and a tree belay. Nice climbing.
Bryce Martin, Cliff Ellery 30-9-98
Three Day Arete 26 15m
2.01
5bolts
Climb the arete and thin crack, then dynamic moves and high steps get you up the steep arete and headwall. 5 bolts and a DBC belay.
Cliff Ellery 4-10-98
2 Hard, 3 Bolts 24 8m
0
3bolts
Kindly donated by Bryce Martin. Three bolts and a DBC belay.
Cliff Ellery 4-10-98
Electric Magpie 15 15m
0
3bolts
From the right hand end of Wacky Wall scramble round the base of the cliff. Stand on a small trunk and climb the face arete and ledge. DBC Belay & 3 bolts.
David Kopp, Peter Butcher 13-07-00