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Wacky Wall

Type
Part of

The track comes out 15m left of the chimney Dirty Dave Does It Again.

Image
Aspect
West
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Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Operations
 Inclination, 18 18 20m 5
1.02

  • P1
  • 18
  • 20m
  • 5

Down at the other end of the cliff about 20 m to the left of the access track. Climb the steep headwall left of the Declination, pulling up on big holds to the slab. 5 bolts and a DBC belay.


 Declination, 16 16 20m 2
0

  • P1
  • 16
  • 20m
  • 2
  • Trad

Start in the deep corner/cave, climb up through the chimney (crux) then clip the bolt at the edge. You may be able to place some wires in the crack below the first bolt. Exit the chimney onto a slab and another bolt, then easy moves up the slab (can be protected with mid-size wires) past the final bolt to a DBC belay.


 Sunset Slab, 17 17 20m 6
1.02

  • P1
  • 17
  • 20m
  • 6

Start up the arete to the right of Declination, then delicate face moves up a steep slab. Try to stay on line for the highest point on the rock. 6 bolts and a belay from gorse bushes.


 Lost Gumboot Groove, 17 17 15m 4
1.02

  • P1
  • 17
  • 15m
  • 4

The thin snaking crack about 15 m left of the chimney. Bridge past the groove at the bottom, up to the headwall (crux). 4 bolts and a DBC belay.


 Dirty Dave Does It Again, 14 14 10m
0

  • P1
  • 14
  • 10m
  • Trad

A classic chimney reminiscent of the bottom pitch of Tibia. Gain the chimney by bridging up the corner, placing a mid sized wire as your only piece of protection. The chimney is a tight fit, so knee and arm bars are the way to go. DBC belay.


 Handle With Care, 18 18 12m 5
0

  • P1
  • 18
  • 12m
  • 5

Bridge the shallow groove, using the arete for hand-holds. Bridge into the corner at the top. 5 bolts and a DBC belay.


 Summit Lust, 18 18 15m 6
0

  • P1
  • 18
  • 15m
  • 6

Climb the black streak. Easiest to start low down from the right. The crux is between the 3rd and 4th bolt. 6 bolts and a DBC belay.


 Jacinta Gilbert, 16 16 15m 6
1.02

  • P1
  • 16
  • 15m
  • 6

Start on the RH side of the arete up the steep wall, and move left on to the arete. The crux is near the top. Six bolts and a DBC belay.


 Mates Rates, 19 19 15m 6
0

  • P1
  • 19
  • 15m
  • 6

Climb the steep face, using the arete. The crux is crossing over to the RH arete near the top. Six bolts and a DBC belay.


 Back ‘N Foot, 16 16 20m 6
0

  • P1
  • 16
  • 20m
  • 6

Walk 20m to the right to an imposing overhanging wall. The chimney at the left of the wall. Climb the honeycombed curving corner. Some of the honeycombed rock is a bit brittle. Six bolts and a tree belay. Nice climbing.


 Three Day Arete, 26 26 15m 5
2.01

  • P1
  • 26
  • 15m
  • 5

Climb the arete and thin crack, then dynamic moves and high steps get you up the steep arete and headwall. 5 bolts and a DBC belay.


 2 Hard, 3 Bolts, 24 24 8m 3
0

  • P1
  • 24
  • 8m
  • 3

Kindly donated by Bryce Martin. Three bolts and a DBC belay.


 Electric Magpie, 15 15 15m 3
0

  • P1
  • 15
  • 15m
  • 3

From the right hand end of Wacky Wall scramble round the base of the cliff. Stand on a small trunk and climb the face arete and ledge. DBC Belay & 3 bolts.


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