The Forks

(10 routes)

This cliff is at the right-hand end of the crag, directly opposite the fork in the river.


Access is from the top. The only easy way to the top is at the far left-hand end of the crag, from
here make your way back along the top to the end paddock. A rough track, which starts
by a couple of Manuka trees, leads out onto the top of the buttress. Either abseil in (DBC
belay) or make your way down the access gully past Supa Mira Fiori and Slacker, and
around to the front of the buttress. The climbs are described from the far left hand end

Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Edit link
Group Dynamics 20 20m
On the buttress out to your left. Bridge across the deep crack, then up through a series of mantle moves to finish up the arete. 5 bolts and a DBC belay.
Cliff Ellery, Bryce Martin, David Hood 4-10-98
Way Out 14 15m
On an early visit to the area (before the track was cut), and after an hour of struggling through the gorse, box-thorn, and blackberry, soloing a grade 14 chimney was a very attractive means of escape. A nice chimney, but unprotected except for the first couple of bolts of As Good As It Gets.
Cliff Ellery [solo] Aug 97
As Good As It Gets 22 20m
Simply brilliant! Steep, steep, steep. Climb the black, overhanging wall. 9 bolts and a DBC belay.
Bryce Martin, David Hood, Cliff Ellery 3-10-98
Crossing the Line 22 20m
The overhanging corner in the middle of the Black wall. Climb easy ground to the bottom of the corner. Bridging the corner get progressively more difficult and strenuous, until you are forced to cut loose and climb the right face. Pull up and over the lip to exit up an easy head wall. Nine bolts and a DBC belay.
Bryce Martin, Cliff Ellery 2-8-98
Vying for Space 22 20m
Climb the overhanging face. Six bolts and a DBC belay. The crux is clipping the fifth bolt.
Cliff Ellery, Bryce Martin, David and Kevin Barratt 2-8-98
A Bolt to No Where 22 22m
Climb the steep face between the two aretes. Start up the right arete, then cross the face onto the left arete. Pull up onto the head wall (crux), finish up the wall and arete. Eight bolts and a DBC belay.
Cliff Ellery, Bryce Martin 26-7-98
Abandoned Project (28+)
Through the cave in the rock is an abandoned project. It is partially bolted.
Supa Mira Fiori 26 15m
Around 25 metres to the right and up a gully are two other routes on the LH wall. Climb the face.
Ton Snelder Mar-92
Slacker 25 15m
Go for a heinous dyno to start - if the ground erodes you can add a grade or two!
Luke Newnham Mar-92
Sucker 19 20m
A prominent corner and slab 50m to the right of the gully. So called when a supposed easy slab turned into something harder. Bolts??
Luke Newnham Jan-93