This cliff is at the right-hand end of the crag, directly opposite the fork in the river.
Access is from the top. The only easy way to the top is at the far left-hand end of the crag, from
here make your way back along the top to the end paddock. A rough track, which starts
by a couple of Manuka trees, leads out onto the top of the buttress. Either abseil in (DBC
belay) or make your way down the access gully past Supa Mira Fiori and Slacker, and
around to the front of the buttress. The climbs are described from the far left hand end
Routes
| Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Pro | Quality | Alert | Operations |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Group Dynamics, 20 | 20 | 20m | 5 |
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On the buttress out to your left. Bridge across the deep crack, then up through a series of mantle moves to finish up the arete. 5 bolts and a DBC belay. |
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| Way Out, 14 | 14 | 15m | 2 |
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On an early visit to the area (before the track was cut), and after an hour of struggling through the gorse, box-thorn, and blackberry, soloing a grade 14 chimney was a very attractive means of escape. A nice chimney, but unprotected except for the first couple of bolts of As Good As It Gets. |
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| As Good As It Gets, 22 | 22 | 20m | 9 |
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Simply brilliant! Steep, steep, steep. Climb the black, overhanging wall. 9 bolts and a DBC belay. |
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| Crossing the Line, 22 | 22 | 20m | 9 |
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The overhanging corner in the middle of the Black wall. Climb easy ground to the bottom of the corner. Bridging the corner get progressively more difficult and strenuous, until you are forced to cut loose and climb the right face. Pull up and over the lip to exit up an easy head wall. Nine bolts and a DBC belay. |
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| Vying for Space, 22 | 22 | 20m | 6 |
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Climb the overhanging face. Six bolts and a DBC belay. The crux is clipping the fifth bolt. |
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| A Bolt to No Where, 22 | 22 | 22m | 8 |
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Climb the steep face between the two aretes. Start up the right arete, then cross the face onto the left arete. Pull up onto the head wall (crux), finish up the wall and arete. Eight bolts and a DBC belay. |
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| Abandoned Project (28+) | |||||||
Through the cave in the rock is an abandoned project. It is partially bolted. |
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| Supa Mira Fiori, 26 | 26 | 15m | 6 |
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Around 25 metres to the right and up a gully are two other routes on the LH wall. Climb the face. |
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| Slacker, 25 | 25 | 15m | 5 |
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Go for a heinous dyno to start - if the ground erodes you can add a grade or two! |
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| Sucker, 19 | 19 | 20m | |||||
A prominent corner and slab 50m to the right of the gully. So called when a supposed easy slab turned into something harder. Bolts?? |
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