An aesthetic crag in a tranquil location, with some sustained climbs worthy of classical status.
The crag consists of the Main face, Tangarahu outcrop to the left, and the stepped down wall
with ‘The Temptress’ to the right. The overhanging nose is 15 metres high with the face rising
in height back to the longest route of 21metres. The rock extends out from a native bush
covered hill and the quality is good apart from the initial soft and dusty few metres on the main
face. A set or two of wires and a range of cams is recommended for the few trad routes.
From the east side of the nose, left to right.
Frog Pond is on the property of the Stubbs family, and is currently leased out to Greg Scott.
Greg is happy for climbers o be on the property as long as permission has been granted from
the stubbs family. He also expects the usual considerations with respect to his livestock and
the closing of gates.
Before entering the property , permission must be sought from
Ann or Alister Stubs (07) 878 8594.
Location
The stubbs farm is located approximately 15km from the Waitomo Caves village towards
Marakopa. Drive past the Awatiro driveway and the Te tiro driveways, and down a hill past
Waipina road on your left. 1.8 km past Waipina road, as the road begins to straighten out, is
a wooden gate off the road to you right. Park here and follow the track in to the crag (see
map)
Places
| Type | Name |
|---|---|
| Area | Bottom of the Hill |
| Area | Stepped Down Wall |
| Area | Tangarahu Rock |
| Area | Next Crag |
| Area | Access Saddle |
| Area | The Hollow |
| Area | Main Cliff |
| Sector | Frog Buttress |
| Sector | Saddle Crag |
Routes
| Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Pro | Quality | Operations |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Sweet Araceli, 15 | 15 |  |
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crack onto the face and up to the horizontal break. Step right, onto the arete and up to the next horizontal break to place a solid last piece of pro. Up and step delicately right onto the laid back slab above the roof. [Pro: Trad] |
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| Walking on the moon, 16 | 16 | |
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The first route at Frog Pond. Start as for Sweet Araceli but upon reaching the arete carry on traversing right along the thinning break into the corner under the roof. Climb this corner up to and underneath the roof for a rest. Traverse right along the handcrack onto the exposed arete of the nose itself. Abundant and bomber protection but be aware of rope drag. [Pro Trad] |
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| Project, 21 | 21 | |
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Start directly under the nose and up to the vertical finger crack. Around arete to the deep crack systems on the main face until they disappear and then traverse right along the hand crack to the large groove. Run out to the top of ‘WOTM’. |
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| French Cuisine, 20 | 20 | |
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On the main face is a central crack system running straight up to a big obvious groove. Start left into the lowest point of a curving horizontal crack. This tends right and up to a horizontal break which is traversed right, into the main crack line itself (about 5m up). The rock to this point is soft and sandy but then leads to superb climbing up steep sustained rock. Leave the crack system behind for the technical chimney. Finish up right on big jugs. Ringbolt belay. [Pro: Trad] |
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| Feral Tendencies, 23 | 23 | 8 |
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The ominous eight bolt route on the right of the main face. Destined to be a classic. The name rings true, as much for the nature of some particular moves, as it does for the lifestyle choice of the time. Ringbolt belay. John Newby. Feb, ‘01. |
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| Feral Tendencies Direct Project ( 25 ? ) | ||||||
At the fourth bolt of Feral Tendencies(23+), instead of stepping up and right to the finger crack. Brave the naked face directly into the orange orifice. |
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| Verde Sunset, 15 | 15 | 12m | 3 |
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From the corner right of Feral Tendencies. Super chimney. It was once a mossy nightmare. |
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| Mutation in my Genes, 25 | 25 | 6 |
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Left of the arete. Climb up to the slopers tending right towards the arete, then back to centre face. Very sustained. 6 bolts. Ringbolt belay. |
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| Awatiro arete, 19 | 19 | 3 |
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Awatiro arete ( 19 ) Boulder up to first clip, to arete and face. A good route with a variety of moves. 3 bolts. Shares same belay as ‘MIMG’. |
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| The Temptress, 24 | 24 | 0m | 5 |
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Technical crack to start, to sharp sloping crux, to long pumpy finish. |
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| Tanga, 13 | 13 | 0m | |
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Left of the Frog pond is a small face, Tanga rahu Rock. Bolt belays and ridiculously easy access to the top. The crack/chimney on the right (uphill side). A comfortably pleasant natural lead. |
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| Bite me Gently, 15 | 15 | 3 |
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Face climb left of Tanga. A wee bite to start with, leads to some nice gentle climbing. Three bolts. |
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| Flight of the Kereru, 16 | 16 | 2 |
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On the back of Tanga Rahu are two bolted lines. Climb the centre line over two bolts for a balancey start, a juggy middle, then think again for the top. |
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| Fugly, 16 | 16 | 3 |
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Right of the Kereru is a three bolt climb with a face start to hand smears on the arete. |
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| Joshies chimney, 15 | 15 | 5 |
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On the North end is a discreet wide chimney. Stretch your way across and up, stepping right at the top onto the arete and face. 5 bolts. |
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Images
