Kinloch (K1)

(28 routes)

Kinloch is not a very large crag with less than 30 routes in total, however offer a great days climbing with easy access and superb easy to moderate climbs. It gets the sun late morning so in winter the afternoon is best while in summer you can spend the afternoon swimming after a mornings climbing. Climbing first started at Kinloch in October 1991 when Mark Jones along with others based at the Tiho Venture school started to develop the area. The rock is riolite and very solid and the routes are generally all high quality.
The crag has been developed with an effort to minimise the visual and physical impact of climbing. Native trees have been preserved and naked bolts used on the most visible parts of the cliff, so bring along your key hole hangers or a set or wires.
The main Cliff is split in two, with the climbs on the right hand end being out in the open while the left hand end of the cliff is tucked away in the bush. When you arrive at the crag most people park their bags adjacent to the large right facing corner of Where to From Here just right of a small boulder that has a selection of belay bolts. The next section of cliff is 10m to the left tucked away in the bush.

Type: 
Crag
Altitude: 
400m
Aspect: 
North West
Walk time: 
1
Access: 

The land is owned and administered by the Wairakei Terraces Trust. They have kindly allowed access to climbers so please respect this and practice the usual courtesies, esp noise levels, as everyone in Kinloch will hear you if you start yelling and screaming. Climbers do not have to contact Wairakei Terraces for permission for personal climbing, but you do need permission (a no charge permit) if you wish to take a commercial or club group there.
Some Maori rock art has been discovered at the base of "Buckets in the Belfry", so this climb is now closed. Please do NOT climb on this otherwise you jeopardise access to the crag.
Once you have reached the settlement of Kinloch, drive straight past the golf course veering slightly right onto Marina Terrace then left down Keitha Place. Park you car at the far end of Keitha place. The crag is a 1 minutes walk from here.

Lat/Lon: 
-38.672712000000, 175.920210000000
NZMS260: 
T18 641 771
Topo50: 
BG36 541 155
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
Wine Trail 15 10m
0
wire representing trad
The obvious crack at the far left hand end of the crag. DBC Belay.
Allan Kane, Richard Dunn, Robyn Wayne, Nov -1991
Working Holiday 16 12m
1.02
5bolts
Climb the face past 5 bolts and a DBC belay.
Bryce Martin, Craig Martin 21/7/97
Cherry Blossom 18,10 22m
1.02
10bolts
Right of Working Holiday. The second pitch can be climbed as an extension of the two climbs to the right, Les Femmes and Wait Until Tomorrow..
Alice Heath, Dan Head, Marina Baiguerra, Oct 2020
Les Femmes et les Grimpeurs d'Abord 19 15m
1.02
6bolts
Vincent Zintzen, Cecile Glorot, Nov 2013
Wait Until Tomorrow 17 20m
1.02
6bolts
Shane Harrison, Cecile Glorot, Nov 2013
There’s Wetas in my Porridge 14 12m
0
wire representing trad
A great trad line but in need of a good clean. A large cam is handy near the top.
Allan Kane, Richard Dunn, Robyn Wayne, Nov 1991
The Elephant Goes Toot 17 20m
2.01
7bolts
Climb up onto the bulletproof looking face. Some great thoughtful moves on some great pockets and edges.
Marcus Manning, Catherine Moger Nov 2013
Holiday Mode 19 15m
1.02
4bolts
The face and arete to the left of From the Editor. Climb past 3 bolts then onto the top ledge, continue up easy ground to the DBC belay.
Bryce Martyn, Jo Willet 2-June-92
From the Editor 15 20m
1.02
6bolts
The obvious groove abd shallow corner in the middle of the wall.
Pete Manning, Jo Willet, Bryce Martyn, 2-June-92
Billy Bob 18 15m
1.02
5bolts
Immediately right of the From the Editor groove/corner. Nice climbing up through the overhang and onto the upper face.
Scott Taylor, Nov 2013
Cerebellum 20 19m
0
7bolts
Up the blunt arete. Don't drift right onto Hidden Treasure.
Hidden Treasure 19 22m
2.01
12bolts
A low bolt protects the tricky start, then power through the overhang on some good holds. Easy climbing in the middle section will lead you to the thought provoking headwall. Nice and long, climbs into the sun, like the name suggests, who would've thought such a nice climb was here!
Dan Head
Walking on Sunshine 16 22m
1.02
11bolts
Starts in the off-width crack/corner (first crux) before breaking out onto easier ground with some good moves. The head wall provides the second more technical crux. Finishes at the same anchor as Hidden Treasure, and like that, this one has length, views and usually some sun.
Slabasaurus 13 10m
0
5bolts
Up the slab on the left leaning corner/ledge, give the tree a hug on the way past, and finish at anchor halfway up the cliff. If you want a second pitch, step left and into the upper half of Walking on Sunshine (grade 16).
Sash Nukada, June 2021
Avalanche 11 20m
0
1 wire representing trad
On the Left hand side of the Right Hand Wall. A deep crack studded with stumps. Steep at first then angles off at the top and another bolt chain belay. (I haven’t been able to find this climb so can only conclude that it has been swallowed up by the bush)
Tunnel Web Tread 14 19m
0
wire representing trad
Immediately left of the overhanging flake. The crack and face above, a little over grown these days. TBC belay.
Mark Jones, Sally Rowe – Oct 1991
Stab of the Stonekeeper 21 10m
0
6bolts
Takes the flake and over hang directly up the middle. Pull over onto the face above then continue up to the DBC belay out right.
Mark Jones Oct 1991.
Terminal Stillness 17 8m
1.02
wire representing trad
Just to the left is a large flake , the route up the right hand side. A superb route up the right-hand crack of the flake. Protection is good round the flake then one bolt in the face. Belay at the chains or keep going to the higher belay of Tunnel Web Spider. (Pro CD, Wires)
Mark Jones, Sally Rowe – Oct 1991
No one 23 18m
0
8bolts
The bolted route up the shallow corner immediately left of the arete.
Romancing the Haggis 21 17m
1.02
wire representing trad
Either start out right or do the pleasant little boulder problem start straight up the arete. Clip the peg then continue up on easier ground till you reach the finger crack proper, a cool head is required and a few micro cam placements can be found. Pleasant climbing up the crack to the DBC belay ledge of Rockness Monster. [Pro: Small & Med CD, W]
Mark Jones, Allan Kane –Oct 1991.
Rockness Monster 17 17m
0
wire representing trad
Climb the obvious corner straight up and over the bulge. This is the crux but it is well protected with fail safe bomber wire placements. Continue up the groove above. Move left near the top and finish on the large belay ledge. DBC belay and the protection is good if you take your time arranging it. [Pro: CD, W]
Mark Jones , Sally Rowe Oct 1991.
Highland Cling 18 15m
0
3bolts
Climb the face and blunt arete. Pull over the bulge then continue up the face and arete to the belay of Electric Wizard. [Pro 3 bolts].
Mark Jones, Allan Kane – Nov 1991.
Electric Wizard 20 15m
2.01
4bolts
Climb up the face left of the corner to the small roof, pull through the roof, crux, then continue up the face. After the top bolt you can either escape out onto the left arete or move over right, both are difficult and both are much of a much ness grade wise. 4 Bolts and a DRB belay.
Mark Jones – Nov 1991.
Crystal Enquiry 18 15m
0
1bolts wire representing trad
Climb up the steep right facing corner then through the small over hang, crux. Continue up the crack and groove system above, then break out left higher up onto the head wall (bolt) and the DRB belay of Where to From Here. The gear placements are a little difficult to arrange but sound. [Pro: CD, Hex, W, 1 bolt].
Mark Jones, Allan Kane – Nov 1991.
Buckets In The Belfry 17 15m
0
5bolts 1
CLIMB CLOSED: Ancient Maori art has been discovered at the bottom of this climb. Please respect landowners request and stay off this climb. The bucket strewn arete just left of Where to From Here. Easy climbing onto the ledge then launch up the arete past 5 bolts , the crux is in the middle to top section. Shares the DRB belay of Where to From Here.
Mark Jones, Allan Kane – Nov 1991.
Where to From Here 16 15m
1.02
wire representing trad
The large right facing corner. Climb the corner crack system at about grade 14 to the large intermediate ledge. Then continue out left round the arching roof crack. A secret hold provides salvation. DRB belay. (Pro, CD, Hex, Wires)
Allan Kane, Richard Dune, Oct 1991
Waiting for the Ant 14 7m
0
3bolts
An awkward start move leads to easy climbing up the middle of the face past 3 naked bolts then mantle onto the large ledge (crux) and belay off the DBC belay. One of the nicest 14 around.
Richard Dunn , Robyn Wayne, Nov-91
Summer at the Beach 14 10m
0
wire representing trad
The small corner groove at the far right hand end of the crag . Climb the slab & arete then pull over the small overhanging section onto the slab above. From this point climb the twin crack’s in the head wall and belay further back in the bush, DRB bealy. (Pro CD, Wires, Hex)
Richard Dunn , Robyn Wayne, Nov-91

Places

Type Title Link to edit content
Boulder Main Cliff Bouldering (6 routes)

This place appears in

UUID: 
aafe567a-1d55-439a-a5dd-5d2227728f7f