K3 -Whangamata Bay Heads

(4 routes)

On the very southern tip of Whangamata Bay eastern peninsula, is a large series of
cliffs. The south facing lower wall, is a riolite crag with a multiple crack lines.

Type: 
Crag
Altitude: 
600m
Aspect: 
South
Access: 

Access
to this crag is by boat only, there is no beach and you therefore require a fairly charm
day or one with winds from the north. In a howling south westerly getting onto the
rocks would be fairly trechous. Never the less there are a few places you can pull
your small tinny (boat) out of the water and onto the rocks. Crash through the bush
to the base of the cliff, 100m from the lake shore. So why bother, well this crag is in
a fantastic location over looking the lake and central plateau with some of the best
crack lines around.
The lines are described from left to right.

Lat/Lon: 
-38.699310000000, 175.904503000000
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Edit link
Project (Hard)
0
Finger crack 2nd crack from the left hand end of crag.
German Lessons 19 ,17 35m
2.01
wire representing trad
About 10m in from the left-hand end of the crag and the second obvious crack line. Climb up through broken ground then follow the crack through the steep wall above (crux). From here continue up to belay ledge at about half height. DB belay. (Pro CD, Wires, Hex)
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
11925mYes
 About 10m in from the left-hand end of the crag and the second obvious crack line. Climb up through broken ground then follow the crack through the steep wall above (crux). From here continue up to belay ledge at about half height. DB belay. (Pro CD, Wires, Hex)
21710mYes
 Step right from the belay and continue up the obvious crack and groove. Move left at the top onto ledge and DBC belay. [Pro CD, Wires, Hex]
Cliff Ellery & Kevin Barratt, 31-Sep-06
Finger Bridging 22 ,18 70m
2.01
wire representing trad
The finger crack and right facing corner immediately right of German Lessons. Start as for G.L but move right at 2m through broken ledges and into corner and finger crack. Sustain climbing to slopping ledge, either continue to top or belay here. The first ascent rested on gear in upper section. (Pro CD, Wires, & Wires
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
12250mYes
 The finger crack and right facing corner immediately right of German Lessons. Start as for G.L but move right at 2m through broken ledges and into corner and finger crack. Sustain climbing to slopping ledge, either continue to top or belay here. The first ascent rested on gear in upper section. (Pro CD, Wires, & Wires
21820mYes
 Continue up the crack through blocky ground then follow crack as it traverses right (crux) to large ledge, DB belay (50m abseil). (Pro CD, Hexs)
Cliff Ellery & Eric Duggan, 15-Feb-09
The Fridge Block 21
3
wire representing trad
The centerpiece of the crag, the obvious crack line right up the middle of the face. Start up a small corner to gain the large ledge. From here just blast up the crack, no rests and few face hold makes for 25m of pure sustained jamming. At the top of the face continue up the crack for another 5m then traverse out right to the large pine tree (belay). (Pro CD, Wires, Hex). The name comes from the fridge size boulder I removed from the overhanging section just prior to leading the climb.
Cliff Ellery, Richard Knott, Bryce Martyn, Miles 23-Jan-03