K2 Crag

(16 routes)

K2 is fearsomely steep overhanging crag that rises out of the bush above Whangamata Bay (Kinloch). It is a rhyolite cliff with a fully welded conglomerate layer which produces large holds and makes climbing at this angle possible.
The crag is situated on the eastern side of Whangamata Bay’s eastern peninsula and about 800m from the lake. It is not the series of lake side cliffs that can be seen from the Kinloch beach.

North West
Walk time: 

Walking (or better still mountain bike): Take the mountain bike track “W2K” that goes right past Kinloch crag and up onto Boujomdel Cres, continue along the W2K mountain bike track up the hill and out onto Whanagamata Peninsula. After about 30-40 minutes you come to a large pine tree plantation (with views of lake). From here continue along the track for another 10 minutes till you reach a rough track heading down the hill and marked with cairns. If you come to a point in the track that folks around a tree, you have gone to far, head back 300m. Take the rough track down the hill to the crag, (Track not suitable for Mountain bikes).
By boat: Head out into the bay, about 2 km from Kinloch, and on the left-hand side is a small beech just past the lake side cliffs. Just up from the beach is a small cliff & cave with a few steep boulder problems. Head round the right-hand side of the cliff where you’ll find a rough track. The track leads up the hill to the base of the crag. Routes are described from left to right.

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Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
Puku Master 22 10m
Climb the left side of the face to the roof, pull through the roof on large holds. 6 Bolts DBC belay.
Berdon Elimger, Stephen King Jan-09
Eat the Meat 25 10m
Climb the right hand side of the face. Delicate moves up to roof (some soft rock) then big moves through roof, moving left and finishing up Puka Master.
Stephen King 4-Jan-09
Project 21 10m
Project 20 20m
Short mans shackles 25 25m
Climb the left hand side of the lower pinnacle past 2 bolts. From the top of the pinnacle clip the bolt/chain (it has now been lengthen for her pleasure), then blast through the steep ground. The angle then eases and the holds get smaller. Climb to the left of the small roof (crux) then top out moving right. DB belay. (Pro: 7 Bolts, 1 Large hex or cam optional between 2nd and 3rd bolt)
Cliff Ellery, Kevin Barratt, & Stepehn Barratt , 29-Nov-05
White Rose Whinging 22 25m
8bolts wire representing trad
Climb the right hand side of the lower pinnacle. From the top of the pinnacle traverse right, then at the 4th bolt pull through the overhang and into the right facing corner. The steep climbing may be over but the crux is the delicate bridging higher up. Move left at the top of the corner (bolt out on left face). Climb the arete and face above to the DBC belay of SMS (Pro: 8 Bolts, 1 medium hex or 2 friend between 2nd and 3rd bolt)
Cliff Ellery, Stephen King , 30-Nov-05
Mojo Moan 24 25m
Climb the conglomerate layer to the right of the buttress then move onto the top of the buttress and the large ledge. From here move up the steep wall past 3 more bolts (difficult) then traverse right into the small corner. Climb faint corner and arete system, the crux is at last bolt. (Pro: 8 Bolts & DBC belay)
Cliff Ellery, Kevin Barratt, 31-Sep-06
The New Black 24 30m
Climb the steep overhanging face on big jugs. Climb through the lip (crux) and into the left facing corner. Continue up corner moving right at the top. 10 Bolts TBC belay
Cliff Ellery, Stephen King 4-Jan-09
Close Project
First 4 bolts of “The New Black” then move right up face.
Man Over Board 24 25m
The jury is still out on this one, it may be 25. Climbs the steep bulgy ground to the left of the arete. Difficult start up the corner then easier climbing through the steep and bulgy ground. At the 4th bolt move right via a difficult sequencing including jamming the horizontal break, crux. You may be through the crux but the climbing doesn’t let up, continuing up the steep ground above till you can step right onto the arete.
Rick McGregor, Bryce Martin & Cliff Ellery, 11-Jan-06
Tricks of the Trad 23 25m
wire representing trad
Climb through the steep bulge & crack, moving right onto the large ledge. Climb the corner crack then move into the hanging corner and crack system out left. Gear can be placed high in the right arching crack and flake before making this move. Climbing the step little corner with an awkward mantel onto the ledge followed by a delicate move to stand up on this ledge. Place a 4 friend up high in the shallow parallel sided scoop, then move up and into the chimney. Easy climbing to the belay. A must for the trad climbing guru, double ropes recommended. (Pro: CD x 2 , W)
Cliff Ellery, Kevin Barratt Feb-06
Chapel of Ghouls 26 25m
Far right-hand end of main cliff. 2 bolts to large ledge system. From the ledge move right to 3rd bolt then back left past 4th bolt (crux) to easier ground. Tricky climbing to roof then traverse right under roof, to arete and DB belay.
Stephen King- 18 Jan 09
Who Done it 17 20m
wire representing trad
A very hard move to get established in corner and crack system (22). May need stand on a handely places boulder or log to negate start move. Follow corner through a couple of bulges to a tree belay. Belay and rapel off tree. This line was lead on site so it is a little dirty in places, but is cleaning up nicely. (Pro. Trad)
Stephen Barratt, Kevin Barratt 29-Nov-05
Fire Brigade 16 15m
Start in the middle of face then traverse out to left arete. Climb through steep ground and onto face just left of arete. Climb arte and face to top. DBC belay. (Pro. 6 bolts-staples)
Cliff Ellery and Jess Dobson Oct-08
Fire Starter 17 15m
Start at the right-hand end of the face then climb up bulgy ground past 3 bolts then more left around roof and onto head wall. Climb head wall moving right to arete and up to DBC belay (Pro. 6 bolts-staples)
Cliff Ellery, Jess Dobson & Dylan Oct-08
Causal Slabby Rake 20 20m
wire representing trad
Crack just right of Fire Starter. Poorly protected start moves lead to easier climbing higher up. Belay off trees. (Pro. Trad)
Stephen Barratt, Kevin Barratt 29-Nov-05.

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