The Wall of Sirens

(6 routes)

A uniquely adventurous new wall at Kawakawa Bay which requires you to abseil in to just
above the water line, build a trad belay and climb out. Trust us it’s heaps of fun!


The easiest way to get to the small ledges (that might be just edges) above the water
line is to climb Park in the Walk or Benny’s Magical Koura Circus to the chain anchor and
abseil off that, taking great care not to get your ropes wet! The first three routes from left can be accessed from BMKC anchors. To access FF and SC, walk along the bushy ledge from the BMKC anchors for 20 metres and abseil in from a rock or tree anchor. First person down builds the
trad anchor.

Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
RD Rain Dogs 19 22m
wire representing trad
From the small belay ledge climb the finger and hand crack through the overhang. Once on the ledge move left to finish on the anchors of Benny’s Magical Koura Circus. “Inside a broken clock. Splashing the wine, With all the Rain Dogs” -
Tom Waits. Gerard Tarr, Andrew Scott, Rob Addis March 2012
Rain Dogs Direct 20 22m
wire representing trad
As for Rain Dogs but from the ledge climb the finger crack direct up into the bush for an exciting finish. Belay off trees on the bushy ledge.
Rob Addis, Gerard Tarr April 2012
DG Delusions of Grandure 17 22m
wire representing trad
From the belay climb the easy corner following the crack to the crux finish.
Andrew Scott, Emiliano Lardone Casenave Baravalle, Rob Addis March 2012
FF Femme Fatale 19 22m
wire representing trad
Climb the continuous snaking crack from the waterline straight up, starting as a wide blocky fist crack and narrows to fingers with balancy lay-backing at two-thirds height (crux).
Alastair McDowell, Tim Exley, Jan 2015
CI Cirencester 20 22m
wire representing trad
Build a belay as for DG and climb the slight arete on the wall straight up veering right onto the top exit slab.
Tim Exley, Alastair McDowell, Jan 2015
SC Siren's Call 18 16m
wire representing trad
Build a belay 6 metres above the waterline on a vegetated ledge. Climb the corner with two staggered overhangs with good holds, finish up the slab. Well protected.
Tim Exley, Alastair McDowell, Jan 2015