The Upper Bluff

(6 routes)

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Altitude: 
500m
Type: 
Wall
Aspect: 
East
Access: 

Continue left from Jug Addiction until you find a small valley leading uphill. Climb
up the valley until a rock cairn is reached, a marked track leads out around the
top of the lower Bluff cliff then turn backs up, leading to the base of the following
climbs.

Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
Recycling Nachos 22 20m
0
6bolts
On the track on the way to the top of the Bluff is a bolted line. Starts in a short corner with 2 bolts. [Pro 6 bolts]
Steven Mc lnally 12-1-07
Selective Hearing 21 25m
1.02
wire representing trad
An abandonment trad route! that’s all I heard. The bit bout the gear in the middle being a bit thin the hard finish and fact that John had been cleaning the route in preparation for an ascent, all got lost under the clanking of cams, wires and quick draws being slung onto my harness. One for the Trad enthusiast, small cams and wires with a overhanging hand jam crux to finish. DRB belay. [Pro. W, Small to Med Cams]
Cliff Ellery 8-9-07
Project
0
The impressive looking roof system and steep head wall.
Morbid Vision 27 25m
1.02
8bolts
The direct line of “alter of Madness”. Share the first 2 and last 2 bolts of Alter of madness. [Pro 8 bolts]
Steven King 12-1-07
Altar of Madness 25 25m
2.01
7bolts
Clip your belayer in to the belay bolt, then follow the line of Ring Bolts up and right. Having gained a bit of a ledge system with your hand traverse back left and up to 6th clip (this bolt has seen plenty of air time). Stay to the left of the bolt and move up through the crux to a double bolt chain belay. Nice technical face climbing [Pro: 7 Ring bolts]
Steven King 30-8-07
Sex Panther 18 ,17 40m
1.02
6bolts wire representing trad
This climb is better if climbed in one pitch but there are anchors half way up if you choose to climb on only this first bolted pitch.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
11820m6No
 Move left after second bolt. Don’t stop at the happy belay continue up onto second pitch with shear delight. [Pro 6 bolts]
21720mYes
 No bolts. All trad, baby. There are several variations to end this route. a) finish at the anchors and ledge, second ya buddy up and rap down etc. b) Once both climbers are at top belay, traverse right under overhang. There is even a bolt so you can safely get to the top of the bluff, (recommended – great views, bring your lunch and some water [Pro CD, W, H]
Jono McDonald, Stephen King 22-4-06
UUID: 
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