2. NZ
  3. North Island
  4. Waikato
  5. Taupo
  6. Kawakawa Bay
  7. The Point

The Point

(31 routes)

This is the newest area to see development and has the most potential for new
routes There are loads of corners, cracks and arêtes awaiting first ascents. For
anyone interested, the rock is very dirty, so bring a wire brush and expect
black booger’s! The Point is a spectacular place to climb, with most routes
being long and exposed, starting on narrow ledges perched high above the
lake. On a clear day Whanganui Bay and the mountains of the Tongariro are
visible. In summer trout can be seen below. The Point stays shaded until midday.

Type: 
Wall
Aspect: 
West
Access: 

The walk to the point from the beach takes around 10 minutes. Follow the track
past the long drop toilet, staying close to the shoreline. Follow the track through
the rock ravine and on to a small beach. Once you leave the shoreline the
track winds through blocky ground. (Just up from this point a track leads up to
the base of “Snake Charmer”). The main track follows the lake at high level
before rising up steeply just before you reach the “The Point”. At the end of the
steep section there is a large boulder, Just left of this point is a small steep cliff
with a couple of routes Bouldering on Trad and Ringbolt roof.

Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
Snake Charmer 19 15m
0
 4bolts
A steep track winds up the hill to an isolate buttress. A single bolt belay marks the start of the climb. From the belay stance traverse left out onto the buttress then climb the crack onto the head wall. Climbing the head wall,crux. DBC belay [Pro 4 bolts]. A bit out of the beaten track but a pleasant little climb in a great location.
Stephen Burrows, Cliff Ellery 19-11-06
Mellow Yellow 14 ,15 ,14 35m
1.02
 10bolts
The Point (proper)
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
1148m3No
 

A short right tending pitch to gain the ledge.
21512m3No
 

Jump over the garden and ascend the slab, traversing right after the third bolt.
31415m4No
 

Climb straight up the slab to the top. Pitches 2+3 are good done as one, just
clip the belay with a sling, 8 bolts 27m
Stephen King, Steven McInally 16-4-06
The Sweet and the Savage 18 ,16 30m
2.01
 wire representing trad
Follow the rock south. The wide corner crack with the large arching roof section.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
11820mYes
 

Follow the crack up and through the roof, being careful not to use your big gear
too early, then mantle onto the ledge for a trad belay. [Pro CD, W]
21610mYes
 

Climb the obvious corner up to a cosy ledge and lower off, a rope stretching
25m abseil gets you back down. Trying to combine both pitches as one as on
the first ascent, only results in hideous rope drag. [Pro CD, W]
Stephen King, Matt Thom 5-11-05
Fistula 19 28m
0
 wire representing trad
The direct start to The sweet and the Savage.
Daniel Joll, Ruben Hull 27/8/06
All Aussie Adventures 15 ,15 35m
1.02
 8bolts wire representing trad
Continue along the track for 10m until a small airy ledge is reached. The crack left of the arête is the start. Time to hit the road!
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
11527m5Yes
 

Start up the crack moving left onto the arête after 10m. Climb the arête past 5
bolts and a large wire placement then finish up the top crack of T.S.A.T.S. [Pro CD, W]
2158m3No
 

A short pitch
Raw Umber 15 15m
0
 5bolts
The arête. 5 bolts, A better start to the previous route.
Heather Brockway, Stephen King 19-3-06
Survival of the Fittest 19 40m
1.02
 14bolts
Start as for Raw Umber then head right up the arête. [Pro 14 Bolts]. John Pellew, Stephen King 11/9/07
John Pellew, Stephen King 11/9/07
The Sweet and the savage 19 40m
0
 5bolts
Start up “Raw Umber” then move right up the arete.
Heather Brockway, Stephen King 19-3-06
High Hopes 16 ,16 45m
3
 14bolts
The next long arête. An outstanding route, one of the best climbs at K Bay.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
11623m7No
 

From the right hand end of the ledge step up carefully to the 1st bolt. Step right
onto the arête after clipping the 3rd bolt, climb past 4 more bolts then step
right to the belay ledge, DBC belay.
21622m7No
 

Climb back onto the arête and follow 7 more bolts to the top. Double
absail. DBC belay. The route can be done as one long awesome pitch

Stephen King 27-12-05
Human Intervention 18 28m
2.01
 9bolts
Past this point the track gets a bit more difficult, so best leave your harness on for clipping into the fixed rope on the traverse sections. At the end of the fixed rope. The arete just right of the large bush filled gully. Start just past the log, traverse diagonally left to the first bolt then follow the rest of the bolts to the top & DBC belay. [Pro 9 bolts]
Stephen King 7-05-06
Natural Selection 18 26m
1.02
 wire representing trad
The crack right of to ”Human Intervention”. Move left near the top to the DBC belay. [Pro W, Cd’s]
Stephen King, Bredon Elimiger 30-07-06
Out Of The Blue 14 18m
1.02
 wire representing trad
A few metres further a long is the “Jump rock”. This is the top. A deep water solo. The best time to do this climb is on a hot day in summer. Descent “JUMP”, Make sure you get a descent run up. If you don’t have the balls, rap down from the tree.
Stephen King 18-12-05
Side Winder 19 ,19 ,17 60m
1.02
 17bolts
Climb the arete and face.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
11960m8No
 

Climb the arete and face.
2190m4No
 

Move right and climb the face.
3170m5No
 

Climb the face. Absail descent .

Matt Thom, Stephen King (alternate leads) 26-11-06
Last Tango in Taupo 21 30m
1.02
 wire representing trad
The crack and thin seam 2m to the right of Side Winder. Finishes at the first belay of Sidewinder. Thin gear, a bold lead, needs a 60m rope. [Pr : small W, Cd’s]
Matt Thom 3-12-06
For King and Country 17 30m
0
 wire representing trad
Climb the crack and right facing corner. [Pro: W, CD]
Tom Johns, John Pellew 8-9-07
Road Tripping 18 48m
3
 14bolts
Climb the face and arête, but wait there’s more! A great line in a fine position. To descend use the bolted anchors about half way up under a big bush, off to the left.
Dan Head solo Jan 2012
Seasons in the Abyss 16 25m
0
 wire representing trad
The corner with the huge honeycomb. Unfortunately not as good as it looks Protection only in the first and last 5m of climbing, so a 15m runout on easy ground. [Pro CD, W]
Stephen King, Matt Thom 12-11-05
Super Natural 15 45m
0
 wire representing trad
For this next section of track, there is a knotted rope and a fixed rope. Don’t let this put you off too much as it is worth it to get to the next climb. Continue down until you reach an aesthetic shady ledge. Climb the thin seam 2m left of the Hecklers. Gear a bit thin at the crux. To get down rap to a set of anchors on the Arete [Pro: W, small CD, CD]
Stephen King , Brendon Elimgers 15-7-07
The Hecklers 19 45m
3
 wire representing trad
The obvious long clean corner crack with a small roof part of the way up. Take plenty of gear and you may also want to tape your hands. Sustained, well protected classic climbing. Possibly the best trad route at Kawakawa Bay. To get down absail straight down to a loweroff in the alcove on the arête to the right. [Pro, 2 sets of CD W, H)
Matt Thom, Stephen King 12-11-05
Sunset Ledge 14 28m
2.01
 wire representing trad
Climb the obvious easy angled corner crack 5m right of the Hecklers. DBC belay. [Pro W]
Brendon Elimiger, 28/07/06
After the Sunset 18 ,16 50m
2.01
 18bolts
Climb the bolted arête right of Sunset Ledge. For an easier first pitch climb Sunset Ledge.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
11850m9No
 

Climb the arête follow the wandering bolts to the D.B.C. belay of Sunset Ledge.
2160m9No
 

From the Sunset Ledge climb the corner on the left, then move right back onto the arête,
great views of Mt Ruapehu whilst climbing.
Rob Addis April 2012
Boat Ramp Crack 17 45m
2.01
 wire representing trad
A few meter to the right is a long open book corner with some staggered overhangs near the start. Descent. Absail down to ledge and DBC belay of Sunset Ledeg. From here rap to ground. (Pro 2 set CD,W, H)
Brendon Elimiger, Matt Thom 21/05
Closed Project
0
 Project The long nice looking finger crack opposite Abolishing Virginity has been cleaned.
Abolishing Virginity (one route at a time) 16 18m
1.02
 6bolts
After Boat Ramp Crack, two ropes lead to a number of climbs that are well worth a visit.
Pudding, Sam Thorpe, Dan Head Dec. 2010
Wish your sister was this dirty 18 19m
2.01
 wire representing trad
Now she’s very clean. Climb the overhang (first crux). Continue past horizontal breaks, moving slightly right and up the widening cracks to a small ledge in a V groove. Climb this (second crux), top out left.
Rob Addis, Mike Rutledge, Andrew Scott April 2011
Park in the Walk 16 18m
1.02
 wire representing trad
Good gear and nice climbing up the corner crack system to the bolted anchor for B.M.K.C.
Matt Wootton, Rob Addis April 2011
Benny’s Magical Koura Circus 18 18m
1.02
 wire representing trad
Aesthetic finger crack at the far end of the lower tier. Climb the ledges, after which thoughtful bridging leads into the finger crack and ample holds on the face. D.B.C. belay
Rob Addis, Dan Head Feb. 2011

Places

Type Title Link to edit content
Wall Little Red Riding Hood Wall (4 routes)
UUID: 
3915a9b0-2e2c-4131-9128-02ba5f00c8e2