Cracks Wall

(16 routes)

Cracks Wall is the most convenient of the crags, being two minutes from the lake, toilet and campsite. The trad climbing here is excellent with a number of high quality cracks in a tranquil location making this crag the first choice for most climbers. The rock stays shaded till midday.


From the lake walk back towards Kinloch for 1 minute to where a rock cairn marks the track leading up to the crag. The track meets the crag at the base of Rohans Arete, a great place to hang.

-38.665639000000, 175.871850000000
T18 599 780
BG35 498 164
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
Jabba the Hut 14 15m
wire representing trad
Start in the corner near the Kanuka tree. Traverse right near the top and finish up T.S.M [Pro CD, W]
Heather Brockway 23-10-05
Anaphylaxis 18 12m
wire representing trad
Four meters left of Jabba the Hutt. Climb the steep hand crack (crux), then traverse right for protection. Finish up arête past the swarm of bees. Tree belay walk off to the Left.
Gerard Tarr, Mr Colorado Jan 2012
The Slot Machine 17 15m
wire representing trad
The obvious hand crack. [Pro CD]
Stephen King, Cliff Ellery 6-8-05
Sunset Boulevard 18 18m
wire representing trad
Starts at the Five Finger. The left trending layback that turns into a right trending flake. Finish up the face, protection a bit thin near the top. [Pro CD,W]
Matt Thom 23-10-05
Coconut Bikini Arête 23 19m
Continuously technical climbing in the lower half will have you singing for jugs.
Gerard Tarr Jan 2013
Outboard Crack 17 20m
wire representing trad
Fun climbing up the right tending crack system. Finish right onto ledge. [Pro CD to size 2 , W)
Matt Thom, Kevin Barratt 6-8-05
The Lizard King 24 20m
The steep and scooped face to the left of Flake. Crux is moving past the 3rd and 4th bolts. [Pro 7 bolts]
Stephen King 24-10-05
Flake 7 18 20m
wire representing trad
The flake/crack system with a small roof near the start. Once at the roof move right around the roof and onto the face, the moves above mark the crux. From here easy climbing to the DBC belay. Great moves with a balancy and well protected crux. [Pro SCD, CD to size 1.5, W].
Stephen King 28-8-05
Critters Corner 18 25m
wire representing trad
The long open book corner. Start up the slab with no gear until you reach the corner go left just below the top to a small ledge to belay.
Stephen King 30-7-05
Great Scott 20 27m
Climb the face to the left of the crack [10bolts]
John Dawkins 23-8-06
Blindmans Bluff 17 28m
wire representing trad
The left hand crack line. Poorly protected through the crux.
Matt Thom 30-7-05
The Gecko Groove 16 28m
wire representing trad
The right hand crack system 3 meters left of the arête. Save your big gear for the top section. An excellent climb. Tree belay. [Pro SCD, CD,W]
Stephen King 3-10-04
Rohans Arete 22 28m
The long arête at the right-hand end of the crag. Stay right of the bolts. DBC belay. Wicked climbing.
Stephen King, 23 October 2004
Back To The Future 25 20m
Climb the face right of the arete. [7 bolts]
Martyn Owen 27-8-06
Mr Bastard 20 12m
wire representing trad
Climb the thin crack up to the slab & DBC belay. [Pro Mid to small CD ,W] Climb the thin crack up to the slab & DBC belay. [Pro Mid to small CD ,W]
Stephen King 17/9/06
Rohans Little Sister 16 12m
Up to the right is a short arête. A good little climb. Stays shaded till long after the other climbs are in the sun. [Pro 4 Bolts]
Heather Brockway 28-8-05

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