The main cliff at Reporoa. Down the far left hand end is a small wall with
numerous bolulder problems, The 1st climb starts just right of here. Climbs are
described from Left to right.
Routes
Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Pro | Quality | Alert | Operations |
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Punga Power, 18 | 18 | ||||||
A great finger crack in the far left corner of the main section which starts with easy bridging and then goes into interesting lay back and jamming. [Pro. CD,W) |
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Loose Cannonballs, 16 | 16 | ||||||
The first line done on the cliff. Claydon figured he was scoring the 1st ascent of this beautiful line but upon reaching the top, an OLD red and green sling was found wrapped around the pine tree, ah well! Since then, the route has been cleaned and RE cleaned by Claydon and Matt and is definitely a fun line to practice you trad on. It can be done as 1 or 2 pitches. Climb up the broken crack/ slab just under and left of a large pine tree. Double Rings Belay just up and left of pine on top. [Pro. CD, W] |
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Death to the Sigg, 20 | 20 | ||||||
Again, this line was lead by Cliff Ellery with the idea that he was bagging a first ascent, but it seems a line this good gets snatched up quick! A real stunning route, though starting it can be a bit daunting as that the crux is just getting off the ground! Start on the gradually widening, slightly overhung, hand crack, pull up onto the big scoop/ ledge, then up through the short off width (the pine tree is NOT eliminated from this climb, hence the name Cliff Ellery gave it- "Tree Hugger"). DBC belay courtesy of Matt Natti. [Pro CD, W] |
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Hammer and Sickle, 19 | 19 | ||||||
Starts up on the ledge, in the corner just right of "Death to the Sigg." A few cool bouldery moves gets you up the sickle shaped crack and then you just hammer out the top! There is a set of double chains directly on top of this climb, as well as a set farther back on the "cave" wall. [Pro. SCD, CD W] |
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Middle Age Mix, 23 | 23 | 3 | |||||
Difficult boulder move to start then mantel ledge. Clip 2nd bolt then move right into scope. Climb scope then pull into crack (crux) and climb through small roof. Easy climbing up fist crack to top. DBC belay. [Pro. 3 Bolts SCD, CD,W] |
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Four Mantels and a Polish Maid, 18 | 18 | 3 | |||||
3 bolts with optional cam down low (DBC)
Trad to chains. The first ascent of both pitches on this climb go to Tom Johns, but as Tom did the 2nd pitch "o' natural," some credit must be given to Tomasz Swinarski for giving it a thorough cleaning during the 2nd ascent. Start by heading up the cool scoops, left of "Three Boulders," head up to a shallow cave (double chain belay) and then finish the line by heading up through the roof crack to a set of bolts on top. |
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Three Boulders, 18 | 18 | 4 | |||||
This line is a must do for boulders. Although it is short (for a roped climb), it offers some really... "interesting" moves, complete with a horribly bouldery (but well protected) top out. This climb was bolted on lead, but as that the bolt placement was less than ideal, 1 or 2 were shuffled around after the top anchors were put in. [Pro 4 bolts] |
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Open Project | |||||||
Flying Frenchman, 20 | 20 | 3 | |||||
A very balancy, technical route up the blank scoop just left of Cyclopean Nightmare. [Pro. 3 Bolts] |
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Cyclopean Nightmare, 25 | 25 | 8 | |||||
This was the line that inspired the revival of the cliff. It starts with a cool mantle to a low ledge, up through a fun "warm up section" and then into a bouldery crux which traverses left, below the Cycopes eye (cave), to a flaring seam. [Pro. 8 Bolts] |
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Elimiger, A2 | A2 | ||||||
Aid the thin seam around the arete from Cyclopean Nightmare. |
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Plecostimus, 17 | 17 | 5 | |||||
vClimb up the scoopy, ramp/ face just right of the aid crack and left of the big roof. [Pro 5 bolts] |
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Butterfingers, 21 | 21 | 4 | |||||
A thought provoking line up the slabby arete just left of a series of good cracks. The crux is probably pulling the mantle onto the angled, blank top, but after wimping out on the first few attempts, Matt added an extra "feel good" bolt to protect the final move! Currently finishes on a single ring bolt. [Pro 4 Bolts] |
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Claymore Crack, 19 | 19 | ||||||
This line was cleaned by Claydon, but after killing himself on repeat attempts on "Cyclopean Nightmare," he offered the line to Cliff after repeatedly being spat from the lower section of the crack. A variation direct line up the slab can be done using the top belay of "Butterfingers". [Pro CD,W] |
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Polish Terrorist, 17 | 17 | ||||||
Jam the obvious hand/ fist crack on the left side of the raise ledge. |
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Double Trouble, 15 | 15 | ||||||
A fun line which offers off width technique with out the off width gear! Bridge, lay back, chimney and jam the two big cracks in the right-hand corner. Exit through the blocks up left. [Pro. Large CD, CD] |
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Second Ascent, 15 | 15 | 2 | |||||
Start with right hand on "Hold the Jam" and cut immediately left to a good sidepull. Head straight up through the crack on the left and then mantle the top. Shares the anchores with "Double Trouble" by the pine tree. The direct start (a bouldery move, straight up to the sidepull) adds at LEAST a grade. |
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Hold the Jam, 13 | 13 | ||||||
A short, fun climb which looks like a crack, but acts like a nice lay back flake due to the lip inside. Cams may be a bit fussy on the first part of this route due to the open back, but break out the old cow bells and you'll be right as rain! |
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Project | 3 | ||||||
3 bolts up the seemingly holdless arete. Essentially this is a bolted boulder problem. This route needs hangers AND a first ascent, so if you are keen, have at! |
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P-nut, Bolt or Jelly, 19 | 19 | 6 | |||||
6 bolts up the left side of the scoop (left of Baraka) and onto the cool arete above. This COULD have been a mixed route but it was decided that because the crux was at the only trad (nut) placement on the route, it was safest for the masses to just make it a full sport route. If you are a purist... bring a few small nuts! |
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Baraka, 15 | 15 | 3 | |||||
This fun little line runs up through the right side of the scoop of the second tier of rock, above "Claymore Crack" and "Polish Terrorist." It starts on the "look ma.... an actual jug!" and heads up and right to a good ledge |