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Wall of Teeth

CLOSED: Closed until further notice. Please do not climb here.
Updated 6 November 2024, by jonathan.

Please do not climb at Mangaokewa until further notice. Negotiations are under way with DOC and Iwi, climbing while the crag is closed will jeopardise any possible future access. Thank you.

Type
Part of

This section, on the second tier (just left of the Colesseum), has the highest
concentration of stalactites for the whole cliff. It starts just right of the top of
"Stairway to Heaven" and continues until the drop off at the Colesseum. It can
be accessed by climbing either "Punk Rockers" or "Diamond in the Rough" or
by using the access ladder (StH) just left of the Lower Lip Wall.

Add Place Add Route

Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Alert Operations
 Teonanact, 23 23 4
1.02

  • P1
  • 23
  • 4

This stunning line cruises up the slightly overhanging face left of Shredder's Revenge. Starts on plates , moving into a tufa corner, Covered with jugs, flowstone and crimps towards the top. 4 P-bolts (DBB)


 Shredder's revenge, 22 22 3
1.02

  • P1
  • 22
  • 3

This is a sweet line with a bit of air between bolts. It is located to the right of stairway to heaven, in the righthand corner of the first face you encounter on the Wall of Teeth. 3 bolts (LO)


 Eleusis, 17 17 1
0

  • P1
  • 17
  • 1
  • Trad

Line up thick collonette by totara tree (belay). 3 slung threads up collonette, breaking left at top of stal to only bolt (long draw). 3 slings, 1 bolt (DBB).


 Angry American, 18 18 6
3

  • P1
  • 18
  • 6

This line, which starts up a juggy face and dives straight into a stalactite laddened corner, was cleaned and bolted by Matt Natti. The quickdraws were hung on the bolts (with care) and a fixed line was left to take pictures from there.... sadly (for Matt) it was not red taped and a Hamilton climber (who was trying to do his part by climbing at the crag by doing a bit of climbing at the newly established to help keep the routes clean), sent the line accidentally. The words that uttered forth from Matt were not at all nice.... and apparently a bit loud as well! 6 bolts (DBB) est.


 Project
0

  • P1

The line of bolts right of "AA," up the face and into the MASSIVE stalactite. Closed project!


 Business Time
0

  • P1

Ring anchors just right of an arête up the steep, blank, black face, left of "HP." Closed project!


 Hokey Poke Me, 19 19 4
1.02

  • P1
  • 19
  • 4

This fun, mildly overhanging line starts on the large, "ice-cream" blob (flowstone) and cruises up on good holds to a ledge and finishes by a collection of stals and dirty flowstone. 4 bolts (LO)


 Life's Two Short, 17 17 2
2.01

  • P1
  • 17
  • 2

A fun line, just right of the MASSIVE curtain of live stalgtites, makes you wish there weren't live stals above it! It can be made to feel a lot harder, due to it's overhanging nature, but there are plenty of good holds to choose from. 2 bolts. (DBB)


 Belly of the Beast, 23 23
0

  • P1
  • 23

 Summertime, 23 23
0

  • P1
  • 23

It is the furthest right line on the wall of teeth.


 Stairway to Heaven
0

Lower Lip Wall- This section starts on the lower tier, just left of the
Coliseum
at the big overhang and finishes at the "Stairway to Heaven" access ladder.


  • P1

This access point was established after one too many people got sick of just scrambling up the original fixed rope. It is an easy climb up fixed staples but for those who are unsure of themselves, feel free to place a few draws on the "ladder" rungs and treat it as a lead climb. There is a single anchor on top to belay from.


 Medusa, 22 22 3
1.02

  • P1
  • 22
  • 3

The prominent corner 8m left of Yellow Snow. Bridge/layback your way up the corner, mantle the pillar and brace yourself for the top. 3bolts.


 Sirens, 26 26 4
1.02

  • P1
  • 26
  • 4

The beckoning steep face 4m left of Yellow Snow. A few cranky moves, a few small holds, but overall more of a sustained edge fest. Be careful using the massive ledge at the start (sounds hollow). 4bolts.


 Yellow Snow, 22 22 3
1.02

  • P1
  • 22
  • 3

This bouldery little line cruises up the slightly overhanging yellow face just after the large boulder and finishes just below some dirty stals. 3 bolts (LO)


 Subterranean, 23 23
1.02

  • P1
  • 23

This line starts by standing on top of the large boulder, clipping the first bolt and then diving into a very bouldery sequence up a steep face.


 Master of My Own World, 28 28
0

  • P1
  • 28

Direct start (ground up) to Subterranean. The first bolt was pre-clipped on this one and a crashpad will save your back on the boulder.


 Little Wonder 3
1.02

  • P1
  • 3

This fun little line of ringbolts starts just right of a blunt arete. A bouldery start leads to cool, easier moves above. 3 bolts (DBB)


 A Finger in the Nose, 21 21 3
1.02

  • P1
  • 21
  • 3

This right trending, diagonal line offers fun climbing on good slopers and pinches. 3 bolts (DBB)


 Hot Harissa, 25 25 2
1.02

  • P1
  • 25
  • 2

The blank looking face with excellent bouldery moves. A long move to the first pocket, then an easy clip, then two more cruxes follow. 2bolts.


Comments
UUID
 
8ce9d052-9155-44cf-831d-cf20c8dbc55f