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The Colesseum

CLOSED: Closed until further notice. Please do not climb here.
Updated 6 November 2024, by jonathan.

Please do not climb at Mangaokewa until further notice. Negotiations are under way with DOC and Iwi, climbing while the crag is closed will jeopardise any possible future access. Thank you.

Type
Part of

The crags "main event." When you hike up the track and you get to the cliff,
turn right and then say "oooooh." Welcome to the steep stuff. Oh, and
EVERYTHING here stays dry in the rain!

Image
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Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Alert Operations
 Giving Up the Good Fight, 21 21 3
0

  • P1
  • 21
  • 3

The three staples up the short steep arete to the left of Punk Rockers. 3 bolts (DBB).


 Burnface Boy, 19 19 3
0

  • P1
  • 19
  • 3

Climb the crack past bolt onto ledge then up steeper ground to belay or continue up to punk rockers belay. 3 Bolts DRB.


 Punk Rockers, 19 19 6
1.02

  • P1
  • 19
  • 6

This was one of the first lines to go up at the crag. It starts up easy ground, just right of the arête, and wanders up the yellow wall on slopey holds. This route shares anchors with "DitR" on the ledge above. 6 bolts (DBB).


 Diamond in the Rough 5
1.02

The following 5 routes share a set of anchors.


  • P1
  • 5

A sweet line, just right of "PR," up the corner left of the dirty water feature. 5 bolts, DBB of PR.


 Skolzinseshin, 15 15 2
1.02

  • P1
  • 15
  • 2

A great introduction to (sport) lead climbing, this is the short (but sweet) line of jugs in the corner. The two bolts at the base are there to demonstrate how to properly deal with the belay at the top of the climb (ie, clipping in the safety, untying and threading, setting up a rappel, etc.). 2 bolts (DBB)


 Frogamatrix, 19 19 2
1.02

  • P1
  • 19
  • 2

The lefthand, two bolt variation to Dogmatrix. Easier if you exit right just after the second bolt.


 Dogamatrix, 17 17 5
2.01

  • P1
  • 17
  • 5

The distinctive, bolted flake (staples) to the right of the dirty water feature. Fun moves and a distinctive crux make this a must do climb. 5 bolts (DBB)


 When Cavers go Climbing, 21 21 5
2.01

  • P1
  • 21
  • 5

When Cavers go Climbing (21) Way to go Ollie! Sent in great form, with MUCH enthusiasm.... Ollie, the bold little caver, took many falls on this sloper covered, blunt arête between "FE" and "Dogmatrix." 5 bolts (5th bolt shared with "FE") (DBB)


 French Ethics, 15 15 5
3

  • P1
  • 15
  • 5

Ah... lead the crack on trad so you can place the anchors..... then bolt it! That's "sport crag" ethics for you. This is another "must do" line. A tricky (for the grade) start leads to beautiful moves up the crack. 5 bolts (DBB).


 Trojan Kat, 20 20 4
2.01

  • P1
  • 20
  • 4

The bolted line, right of "FE." Climb the crack to the shallow hourglass shaped corners, then up the short, rampy slab. 4 bolts (DBB)


 Storming the Gates of Troy, 20 20 4
2.01

  • P1
  • 20
  • 4

The line of ringbolts up the zig zagging corners, between "TK" and "1,2, SaF." The start is shares the same flake as "TK," then cuts right into the corner. An harder, unprotected direct start can be done if you are into cool bouldery moves. 4 bolts (DBB)


 Moonshine, 23 23 5
0

  • P1
  • 23
  • 5

Start 3m right of Storming the Gates of Troy and climb a crescent shaped line to finish at the lower off with STGOT. 5 Stainless steel bolts to DBB.


 One, two, Skip a Few, 21 21 7
2.01

  • P1
  • 21
  • 7

This is a great line for climbers wanting to break into grade 21. There are lots of holds to choose from, though only a few are REALLY good. This climb has already seen a LOT of falls... but the bolting is fairly tight and once you find a good sequence, it's sure to become a favorite. 7 bolts (DBB).


 Inflatable Gladiators, 17 17 7
0

  • P1
  • 17
  • 7

The corner/ crack to low angle face. 5 bolts (DBB).


 Jess's Staircase, 14 14
0

  • P1
  • 14

This is the access up to the right side of the Colesseum's second tier. It was originally soloed and THEN cleaned by Jess Dobson. Then, due to developing, it got dirty again. Then she cleaned it again..... then, well, you get the idea. There is currently a fixed line hanging on this route until it the dust settles (literally) at the crag and it can be properly cleaned and bolted.


 Two Up, 17 17 2
0

  • P1
  • 17
  • 2

Arete right of Jess’s staircase. Climb face then onto arête up to ledge 2 Bolts DRB,


 Enter the Arena, 22 22 5
1.02

2nd tier
The following 2 routes can be accessed (or linked) by climbing "Dogmatrix,"
"WCGC," or "FE."


  • P1
  • 22
  • 5

From the DBB of "FE," follow the bolts left to the stal, then up. Pulling the lip is the crux (secret hold out left!). 5 bolt (DBB).


 Weapons of Pleasure, 21 21 3
2.01

  • P1
  • 21
  • 3

The line straight above the belay. Probably the best "combination line" is to link "WCGC" and this route together to make one, TALL 21 out of the two routes. 3 bolts (LO)


 One for the Empire, 27 27 8
3

  • P1
  • 27
  • 8

From FE belay, traverse right on fixed purple rope to 2nd set of belay rings and head up steep, hard face. Crux at top. 8 bolts (DBB)


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