Waterfall buttress

(5 routes)

On descending the track to the beach, turn right. The first cliff at the back of the
beach has a small waterfall when wet. This is Waterfall buttress. It is composed
of the full range of Te Ananui rock, from the solid black and solid orange rock to
the left of the waterfall, to the weathered white crud on the far left. Take the hint
and climb on the solid stuff.

Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
Waiver up 16
wire representing trad
Left of Good Friday is a long white and yellow wall. At the far left end is a low arete. Eight metres right of the arete there is a small dead tree and Kei kei. Below this are two parallel cracks. Climb these and exit to the right of the block.
Dan Hawthorne, John Smith and Bryce Martin 17/5/1992
Good Friday 19 25m
wire representing trad
An excellent varied route up the prominent orange buttress. Two metres left of Ash Wednesday is a corner crack with two small roofs. Climb the corner to the upper roof which is turned on the right. Step left onto the ledge then strike boldly up the wall above (crux) (what looks like loose rock is actually solid). Follow the crack exiting past a block on the left. Scramble up to a firmly-rooted tree further up the bank.
Dave Campbell, Jo Haines 17/4/1992
Ash Wednesday 17 7m
wire representing trad
Short but shit hot. Nine metres left of the waterfall is a right-facing corner of jetblack rock, the left wall split by a crack above an overhang. Climb this to the small tree on the ledge.
Jo Haines, Dave Campbell 17/4/1992
Jo Haines, Dave Campbell 17/4/1992 16 15m
wire representing trad
A nice line that's harder than it looks. Climb the crack 2m right of the Anarchy/Apathy corner then follow the groove leftwards to finish up Apathy. Jo Haines, Dave Campbell 1/3/1992.
Jo Haines, Dave Campbell 1/3/1992.
Narnia Before Dark 14 10m
wire representing trad
About four meters to the right of Waiver Up, a short vertical face, slightly cut away at the feet, leads to a series of steps. Finish right of the same block as Waiver Up, protecting the top section with slings. Tree belay.
Margaret Chen 05/05/2018