The Cheddar Masters Choice

Type

Sector

Part of

Te Ananui

At the far left end there is a
dramatic, sheer wall with some amazing rock high up.

Aspect

South East

Approach

The Tunnel Area
You’ve just walked through the tunnel, and you’ve found yourself on a beautiful secluded
little beach surrounded by tall cliffs draped by Pohutukawa trees. Just before you tear off
your clothes and rush into the sea, check out the crags here. On your immediate right and
above you is The Cheddar Master's Choice. At the far end of the beach is a cliff which
juts out into the sea with prominent cracklines, and a cave. This is Pohutukawa cliff.
Along the cliff to the right is a white expanse of rock called Scunge wall (for obvious
reasons). This merges into a high steep cliff of beautiful orange rock with thin cracklines
called Echo wall, home of some of the best Te Ananui routes. Partly hidden by trees is
Yellow brick road wall.

Add Place Add Route

Routes

Reference	Title	Grade	Length	Pro	Quality
	Roger rabbit's radical route, 17	17	52m		0
The route takes a line leading towards a corner right of the roofs at the top. This rather bold foray was made with the misguided assumption that the climbing would be at about grade 14! Needs a 4th pitch to finish this route. P1 15 12m Trad Climb the short corner and face with cracks to large ledge behind a tree. P2 13 20m Trad Creep up the ramp using a crack in the wall behind for protection, then do a Tarzan impersonation up through the trees beyond to arrive at a belay at the base of the upper wall. P3 17 20m Trad Climb the steep white corner, exit right onto good rock, then up the face to a groove. Finish at a ledge (where an attack of the amazing shrinking testicles struck, causing an immediate evacuation of the victim by abseil. The orange-slung hex is yours if you want to finish this route).
	Judge Dread, 22	22	35m		1.02
P1 22 35m Trad The striking yellow wall. Start boldly as for Strontium dog then traverse left with growing concern to the first of 6 bolt brackets. Finishes at the Pohutukawa. Must be a classic!
	Strontium dog, 19	19	35m		0
P1 19 35m Trad Takes the shallow corner right of the striking yellow wall at the left end of The Cheddar Masters choice (see topo). Climb through choss and trees on the right to reach the belay ledge to start. Above this good pro thins out quickly until the corner is gained. Up this to the Pohutukawa to finish.
	Dreams are brie, 20	20	15m		0
P1 20 15m Trad Five metres along from the tunnel is an obvious white flake. Assault the right crack of the flake (deceptively awkward). Finish up cheesy ground (beware of loose blocks). Large hex or cam for belay.
	Simon the drowning belayer, 18	18	15m	5	0
P1 18 15m 5 On the seaward side of the tunnel exit is a black slab. Five bolts up the slab. Don’t get caught by the tide! 1992.

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UUID

89d9a323-0023-4e12-854e-a44132b0f241