The Cheddar Masters Choice

(5 routes)

At the far left end there is a
dramatic, sheer wall with some amazing rock high up.

Type: 
Wall
Aspect: 
South East
Access: 

The Tunnel Area
You’ve just walked through the tunnel, and you’ve found yourself on a beautiful secluded
little beach surrounded by tall cliffs draped by Pohutukawa trees. Just before you tear off
your clothes and rush into the sea, check out the crags here. On your immediate right and
above you is The Cheddar Master's Choice. At the far end of the beach is a cliff which
juts out into the sea with prominent cracklines, and a cave. This is Pohutukawa cliff.
Along the cliff to the right is a white expanse of rock called Scunge wall (for obvious
reasons). This merges into a high steep cliff of beautiful orange rock with thin cracklines
called Echo wall, home of some of the best Te Ananui routes. Partly hidden by trees is
Yellow brick road wall.

Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
Roger rabbit's radical route 15 ,13 ,17 52m
0
wire representing trad
The route takes a line leading towards a corner right of the roofs at the top. This rather bold foray was made with the misguided assumption that the climbing would be at about grade 14! Needs a 4th pitch to finish this route.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
11512mYes
 Climb the short corner and face with cracks to large ledge behind a tree.
21320mYes
 Creep up the ramp using a crack in the wall behind for protection, then do a Tarzan impersonation up through the trees beyond to arrive at a belay at the base of the upper wall.
31720mYes
 Climb the steep white corner, exit right onto good rock, then up the face to a groove. Finish at a ledge (where an attack of the amazing shrinking testicles struck, causing an immediate evacuation of the victim by abseil. The orange-slung hex is yours if you want to finish this route).
Jo Haines and Dave Campbell 1/3/1992.
Judge Dread 22 35m
1.02
wire representing trad
The striking yellow wall. Start boldly as for Strontium dog then traverse left with growing concern to the first of 6 bolt brackets. Finishes at the Pohutukawa. Must be a classic!
Mark Jones, Ray Hollingsworth 3/1992
Strontium dog 19 35m
0
wire representing trad
Takes the shallow corner right of the striking yellow wall at the left end of The Cheddar Masters choice (see topo). Climb through choss and trees on the right to reach the belay ledge to start. Above this good pro thins out quickly until the corner is gained. Up this to the Pohutukawa to finish.
Mark Jones, Ray Hollingsworth 3/1992
Dreams are brie 20 15m
0
wire representing trad
Five metres along from the tunnel is an obvious white flake. Assault the right crack of the flake (deceptively awkward). Finish up cheesy ground (beware of loose blocks). Large hex or cam for belay.
Ray Hollingsworth, Mark Jones 10/1/1992.
Simon the drowning belayer 18 15m
0
5bolts
On the seaward side of the tunnel exit is a black slab. Five bolts up the slab. Don’t get caught by the tide! 1992.