Walking left, around the prominent arete is an alcove and the start of an impressive wall
with a long roof broken by a pillar in the centre. This is Surf's up wall, which extends 70
metres to the tunnel which gives access to the main crag.
Routes
| Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Pro | Quality | Operations |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Thunder road, 20 | 20 | 20m |  |
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A two pitch route through the tunnel on horizontal flakes. Apparently just as
Starts at the back of the cave at the base of a corner. Up this to a roof and traverse left around the corner on good jams and underclings. Keep going to the ledge at the seaward mouth of the tunnel.
Launch spectacularly across the mouth of the cave on good flakes until one can regain the ledge above. Back left to finish up a corner. |
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| The mission bell, 21 | 21 | 7m | |
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The short but elegant crack on the right as one enters the archway from the north. The block on the upper left wall is stable, but not solid enough to protect behind. Either finish up Fallen angel or traverse and downclimb something. |
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| Fallen angel, 18 | 18 | 25m | |
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Takes the right-facing corner just around from and right of the tunnel at the south end of Surf's up wall. Either climb the low angled rock above, or sidle right then left to get to the base of the left-facing corner above to belay.
Bridge up the overhanging corner on good rock, stepping right to exit at the top. Scramble up to belay behind a tree. |
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| Ellen's route, 13 | 13 | 15m | |
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Short groove 15 metres left of Procrastination. |
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| Procrastination, 20 | 20 | 20m | |
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Break roof on the right and bridge up the corner. At present the finish is a bit nasty, but this will be a classic if a bolt anchor is installed. |
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| Void to the sea, 16 | 16 | 20m | |
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Left of RTS is a wall with roofs. Towards the left hand end are a couple of bolted routes (grade and details?). Forty metres left of Anarchy is a corner with a V-shaped roof. This is Procrastination. Two metres right of Procrastination climb up the right-trending flake to the corner with a ledge. Engineer some protection then climb the corner. |
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| Romancing the stone, 21 | 21 | 15m | |
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Three metres left of Anarchy at the start of the long roof is this obvious crack. Boulder up to the roof where there is a solid Friend placement then break through onto the gently overhung wall above (crux). Climb the crack and exit right at the top. |
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| Anarchy, 22 | 22 | 15m | |
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Start as for Apathy then move left past the roof (crux) and finish up the corner above. A fine climb and very sustained. Look for good #5 Rock placement left of the roof. Belay off the bollard and trees back from the top. Abseil or downclimb arete. |
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| Apathy, 19 | 19 | 15m | |
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At the far right-hand end of Surf's up wall is a shady alcove with a corner and small roof. Stem the corner (crux) to the roof then exit rightwards and up the seam above. This is the whimps version of the next climb, but still a nice route on it's own. Good protection with wires and Friends. A 3.5 Camalot is useful for the large break near the top. |
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| She shall on the sea shore, 16 | 16 | 15m | |
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A nice line that's harder than it looks. Climb the crack 2m right of the Anarchy/Apathy corner then follow the groove leftwards to finish up Apathy. |
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Images
