Surfs Up Wall

Walking left, around the prominent arete is an alcove and the start of an impressive wall
with a long roof broken by a pillar in the centre. This is Surf's up wall, which extends 70
metres to the tunnel which gives access to the main crag.

Type:

Wall

Aspect:

East

Reference

Title

Grade

Length

Quality

Bolts

Gone

Natural pro

Link to edit content

Thunder road

20 ,17

20m

A two pitch route through the tunnel on horizontal flakes. Apparently just as exciting to follow as to lead.

#	Ewbank	Length	Trad
1	20	20m	Yes
	Starts at the back of the cave at the base of a corner. Up this to a roof and traverse left around the corner on good jams and underclings. Keep going to the ledge at the seaward mouth of the tunnel.
2	17	0m	Yes
	Launch spectacularly across the mouth of the cave on good flakes until one can regain the ledge above. Back left to finish up a corner.

Mark Jones, Ray Hollingsworth 1/1992.

The mission bell

The short but elegant crack on the right as one enters the archway from the north. The block on the upper left wall is stable, but not solid enough to protect behind. Either finish up Fallen angel or traverse and downclimb something.

Mark Jones and Ray Hollingsworth 3/1992.

Fallen angel

17 ,18

25m

Takes the right-facing corner just around from and right of the tunnel at the south end of Surf's up wall. Either climb the low angled rock above, or sidle right then left to get to the base of the left-facing corner above to belay.

#	Ewbank	Length	Trad
1	17	15m	Yes
	Takes the right-facing corner just around from and right of the tunnel at the south end of Surf's up wall. Either climb the low angled rock above, or sidle right then left to get to the base of the left-facing corner above to belay.
2	18	10m	Yes
	Bridge up the overhanging corner on good rock, stepping right to exit at the top. Scramble up to belay behind a tree.

Jo Haines and Dave Campbell, alternate leads 1/3/1992

Ellen's route

15m

Short groove 15 metres left of Procrastination.

Ellen Sagmyr, Will McQueen 1/3/1992

Procrastination

20m

Break roof on the right and bridge up the corner. At present the finish is a bit nasty, but this will be a classic if a bolt anchor is installed.

Mark Judge 1/3/1992.

Void to the sea

20m

Left of RTS is a wall with roofs. Towards the left hand end are a couple of bolted routes (grade and details?). Forty metres left of Anarchy is a corner with a V-shaped roof. This is Procrastination. Two metres right of Procrastination climb up the right-trending flake to the corner with a ledge. Engineer some protection then climb the corner.

Will McQueen, Ellen Sagmyr 1/3/1992

Romancing the stone

15m

Three metres left of Anarchy at the start of the long roof is this obvious crack. Boulder up to the roof where there is a solid Friend placement then break through onto the gently overhung wall above (crux). Climb the crack and exit right at the top.

Dave Campbell, Jo Haines, Bryce Martin 17/5/1992.

Anarchy

15m

Start as for Apathy then move left past the roof (crux) and finish up the corner above. A fine climb and very sustained. Look for good #5 Rock placement left of the roof. Belay off the bollard and trees back from the top. Abseil or downclimb arete.

Dave Campbell, Jo Haines 1/3/1992

Apathy

15m

At the far right-hand end of Surf's up wall is a shady alcove with a corner and small roof. Stem the corner (crux) to the roof then exit rightwards and up the seam above. This is the whimps version of the next climb, but still a nice route on it's own. Good protection with wires and Friends. A 3.5 Camalot is useful for the large break near the top.

Dave Campbell, Jo Haines 1/3/1992.

She shall on the sea shore

15m

A nice line that's harder than it looks. Climb the crack 2m right of the Anarchy/Apathy corner then follow the groove leftwards to finish up Apathy.

Jo Haines, Dave Campbell 1/3/1992.

UUID:

f213f453-e817-4542-9d07-eddde5e7d416

(10 routes)