Walking left, around the prominent arete is an alcove and the start of an impressive wall
with a long roof broken by a pillar in the centre. This is Surf's up wall, which extends 70
metres to the tunnel which gives access to the main crag.


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Thunder road | 20 ,17 | 20m |
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A two pitch route through the tunnel on horizontal flakes. Apparently just as
exciting to follow as to lead.
Mark Jones, Ray Hollingsworth 1/1992.
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The mission bell | 21 | 7m |
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The short but elegant crack on the right as one enters the archway from the
north. The block on the upper left wall is stable, but not solid enough to protect
behind. Either finish up Fallen angel or traverse and downclimb something.
Mark Jones and Ray Hollingsworth 3/1992.
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Fallen angel | 17 ,18 | 25m |
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Takes the right-facing corner just around from and right of
the tunnel at the south end of Surf's up wall. Either climb the low angled rock
above, or sidle right then left to get to the base of the left-facing corner above to
belay.
Jo Haines and Dave Campbell, alternate leads 1/3/1992
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Ellen's route | 13 | 15m |
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Short groove 15 metres left of Procrastination.
Ellen Sagmyr, Will McQueen 1/3/1992
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Procrastination | 20 | 20m |
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Break roof on the right and bridge up the corner. At present the finish is a bit
nasty, but this will be a classic if a bolt anchor is installed.
Mark Judge 1/3/1992.
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Void to the sea | 16 | 20m |
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Left of RTS is a wall with roofs. Towards the left hand end are a couple of bolted routes
(grade and details?). Forty metres left of Anarchy is a corner with a V-shaped roof. This
is Procrastination.
Two metres right of Procrastination climb up the right-trending flake to the corner
with a ledge. Engineer some protection then climb the corner.
Will McQueen, Ellen Sagmyr 1/3/1992
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Romancing the stone | 21 | 15m |
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Three metres left of Anarchy at the start of the long roof is this obvious crack.
Boulder up to the roof where there is a solid Friend placement then break
through onto the gently overhung wall above (crux). Climb the crack and exit
right at the top.
Dave Campbell, Jo Haines, Bryce Martin 17/5/1992.
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Anarchy | 22 | 15m |
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Start as for Apathy then move left past the roof (crux) and finish up the corner
above. A fine climb and very sustained. Look for good #5 Rock placement left of
the roof. Belay off the bollard and trees back from the top. Abseil or downclimb
arete.
Dave Campbell, Jo Haines 1/3/1992
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Apathy | 19 | 15m |
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At the far right-hand end of Surf's up wall is a shady alcove with a corner and
small roof. Stem the corner (crux) to the roof then exit rightwards and up the
seam above. This is the whimps version of the next climb, but still a nice route
on it's own. Good protection with wires and Friends. A 3.5 Camalot is useful for
the large break near the top.
Dave Campbell, Jo Haines 1/3/1992.
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She shall on the sea shore | 16 | 15m |
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A nice line that's harder than it looks. Climb the crack 2m right of the
Anarchy/Apathy corner then follow the groove leftwards to finish up Apathy.
Jo Haines, Dave Campbell 1/3/1992.
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