Left of the prominent cave (there will be some awesome routes out of this some day) is Pohutukawa Wall, with obvious cracklines. This cliff attracted most attention initially and has the greatest density of routes.
Routes
| Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Pro | Quality | Operations |
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| Toad in the hole, 17 | 17 | 15m |  |
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On the outside wall of the chimney/cave. Boulder up the roof to start, then follow the groove past the hole to the top. Abseil down the chimney while on belay. |
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| Santa's surprise, 16 | 16 | |
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Further around the coast is a prominent pinnacle jutting out into the sea,
On the beach south of the pinnacle is a low cave which gives access to a huge open chimney. Inside the chimney is a perfect Whanganui bay style corner crack (if a little dirty). Climb it to the top of the chimney. Use your imagination to get down. |
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| Boulderers licence | 7m | |||||
The next little cove has a prominent slab just left of a small cave. BP refers to boulder problem: Face and crack just left of Scramble. |
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| Scramble, -4 | -4 | 7m | ||||
Up ripples and pocks on the arete left of the chimney. |
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| Opposing forces, -4 | -4 | 7m | ||||
The chimney. |
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| Burlesque, 17 | 17 | 12m | |
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A little grubby, but a nice crack climb with a definite crux. Traverse left to the small bush to finish, or carry on up to a sturdy Pohutukawa. |
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| Groovy crabs, 17 | 17 | 20m | |
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On the seaward end of Pohutukawa cliff are some grooves and cracks. The first route at Te Ananui, this takes the left-most groove. Crux moves through the bulge, finishing up a dirt bank (careful). |
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| 16 | 16Sneeches on Beaches, 15 | 15 | 25m | |
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Stepped arete left of chimney/offwidth at the end of Pohutukawa cliff. Exit left at the top (sandy) and up to scrub. |
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| 17 | 17Dreadrock Holiday, 21 | 21 | 20m | |
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Thin crack above the groove two metres left of Antymatter. Runout at the top on shitty rock. Needs a bolt belay. |
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| 18 | 18Antymatter, 18 | 18 | 20m | |
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The aesthetic thin crack line. Named in reference to an altercation with an ant’s nest on the first ascent. Belay off the pohutukawa tree roots. |
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| 19 | 19Rapture of the Steep, 19 | 19 | 20m | |
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The thin crack two metres left of Thidwicks Flake. Climb to the level of the pohutukawa and traverse into it to belay. RPs useful. |
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| 20 | 20Thidwicks Flake, 17 | 17 | 15m | |
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Corner crack system, with the flake in the lower corner. Finish at the tree. A choice line on good rock. |
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| 21 | 21Solitary Vice, 19 | 19 | 18m | |
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The open corner on the left side of the arete. Sound rock and nice bridging moves. |
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| 22 | 22Rhyolite Rhapsody, 16 | 16 | 18m | |
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A small roof at 2–3m height, with an arete above. Up the flake and through the small roof to the pedestal, then up the steep corner crack on the right side of the arete to finish at the tree. Nice! |
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| Ken takes a tumble, 16 | 16 | 18m | |
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Corner crack on the buttress one metre left of Flying in a blue dream. Step right to tree at the top of Flying in a blue dream. Nice. |
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| Flying in a blue dream, 16 | 16 | 18m | |
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A lovely climb and a good introduction to Te Ananui. Corner crack system, clamber past the small tree to the large Pohutukawa for belay and abseil. |
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| Sweet Melisa, 15 | 15 | 18m | |
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Direct start to Demolition crack, takes the thin crack 1m left. |
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| Demolition crack, 16 | 16 | 18m | |
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Overhanging pod and crack to start (crux), then overlapping hand crack, step left below dead stump into the base of the prominent crack splitting the face, exit right to ramp and up to belay tree. Named for the huge block pulled off on the second ascent. |
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Images
