Left of the prominent cave (there will be some awesome routes out of this some day) is
Pohutukawa cliff, the cliff with the obvious cracklines. This cliff attracted most attention
initially, and has the greatest density of routes.
Type:
Wall
Aspect:
North East

Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Quality | Bolts | Gone | Natural pro | Link to edit content | ||
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Toad in the hole | 17 | 15m |
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On the outside wall of the chimney/cave. Boulder up the roof to start, then follow
the groove past the hole to the top. Abseil down the chimney while on belay.
Jo Haines, Dave Campbell 17/4/1992.
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Santa's surprise | 16 |
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Further around the coast is a prominent pinnacle jutting out into the sea,
nicknamed
Elephant rock. There are a few nice lines on this pinnacle however the rock
is a bit
dangerous. The crack on the seaward end was attempted by Dave, but he
prudently
backed off.
At times there is sand at low tide around the end of Elephant rock, at other
times you may
have to jump across rock pools. The next sandy beach has a great deal of
rock, however
the quality appears to be poor.
Dave Barker, Ken Morison 2/1/1992.
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Boulderers licence | 7m |
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The next little cove has a prominent slab just left of a small cave. BP refers to boulder
problem:
Face and crack just left of Scramble.
Dave Bailey, 22 February 1992
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Scramble | -4 | 7m |
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Up ripples and pocks on the arete left of the chimney.
Dave Bailey 22/2/1992.
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Opposing forces | -4 | 7m |
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The chimney.
Dave Bailey 22/2/1992.
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Burlesque | 17 | 12m |
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A little grubby, but a nice crack climb with a definite crux. Traverse left to the
small bush to finish, or carry on up to a sturdy Pohutukawa.
Jo Haines, Dave Campbell 17/4/1992.
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Groovy crabs | 17 | 20m |
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On the seaward end of Pohutukawa cliff are some grooves and cracks. The first route at Te Ananui, this takes the left-most groove. Crux moves through
the bulge, finishing up a dirt bank (careful).
Jo Haines, Dave Campbell 5/10/1991.
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Sneeches on beaches | 15 | 25m |
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Stepped arete left of chimney/offwidth at the end of Pohutukawa cliff. Exit left at
the top (sandy) and up to scrub.
Dave Campbell, Jo Haines 5/1/1991.
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Dreadrock holiday | 21 | 20m |
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Thin crack above the groove two metres left of Antymatter. Runout at the top on
shitty rock. Needs a bolt belay.
Mark Jones, Ray Hollingsworth 1/1992.
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Antymatter | 18 | 20m |
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flake. Belay off Pohutukawa roots, beware of the ant nest.
Mark Jones, Ray Hollingsworth 1/1992.
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Rapture of the steep | 19 | 20m |
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The thin crack two metres left of Thidwicks flake. Climb to the level of the
Pohutukawa and traverse into it to belay. RP's useful.
Mark Jones, Ray Hollingsworth 8/1/1992.
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Thidwick's flake | 17 | 15m |
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Corner crack system, with the flake in the lower corner. Finish at the tree. A
choice line on good rock.
Ken Morison, Mandy Armstrong 13/10/1991.
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Solitary vice | 19 | 18m |
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The open corner on the left side of the arete. Sound rock and nice bridging
moves.
Dave Campbell, Jo Haines 29/2/1992.
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Rhyolite rhapsody | 16 | 18m |
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Past the arete left of Ken takes a tumble is a steep face with cracklines which juts out
towards the sea (shown on the cover photo). The prominent central corner crack system
with the large tree in the top corner is Thidwick's flake.
Three metres right of Thidwick's flake is a small roof at 2-3 m height, with an
arete above. Up the flake and through the small roof to the pedestal, then up the
steep corner crack on the right side of the arete to finish at the tree. Nice!
Dave Campbell, Jo Haines 5/10/1991.
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Ken takes a tumble | 16 | 18m |
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Corner crack on the buttress one metre left of Flying in a blue dream. Step right
to tree at the top of Flying in a blue dream. Nice.
Dave Barker, Ken Morison 2/1/1992.
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Flying in a blue dream | 16 | 18m |
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A lovely climb and a good introduction to Te Ananui. Corner crack system,
clamber past the small tree to the large Pohutukawa for belay and abseil.
Jo Haines, Dave Campbell 5/10/1991.
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Sweet Melisa | 15 | 18m |
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Direct start to Demolition crack, takes the thin crack 1m left.
Ray Hollingsworth, Cath Fitzpatrick and Astrid Clapcott 2/1992.
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Demolition crack | 16 | 18m |
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Overhanging pod and crack to start (crux), then overlapping hand crack, step left
below dead stump into the base of the prominent crack splitting the face, exit
right to ramp and up to belay tree. Named for the huge block pulled off on the
second ascent.
Dave Campbell, Jo Haines 5/10/1991.
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UUID:
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