ACCESS IS CLOSED UNTIL FURTHER NOTICE
NOTES:
The next climbs are all just under 30 meters, so bring the right rope/s!
If it has been raining in the last 3 days some climbs on this wall may still be dripping wet
In Summer this wall is cool till about 12/1pm, Winter it's lovely after midday.
These climbs can be climbed ground up, unlike many of the other routes at Castle Rock
Routes Described from right to left as you walk down the hill.
ACCESS IS CLOSED UNTIL FURTHER NOTICE
Heading up the main track 30m below the saddle is a cairn on the left. This marks the “climbers track” round the left of the pinnacles outcrop to the Kookmeyer valley. If you don’t get lost you should come out at the top of a step gully with the Kookmeyer wall on your right. The first climb you come to is an open project of unknown grade. Alternatively 2 raps will get you in from the top. To get to the top continue up the main track to the saddle. Take the left track round to the top of the Kookmeyer and Budda pinnacle. You can rap down “Wind/Left Dancer”, “Te Punga” or “Sleeping Boys”, they are all 2 raps to base even on twin 60m ropes!
Routes
| Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Pro | Quality | Operations |
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| Fee-Fi-Fo-Fum, 17 | 17 | 50m |  |
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Start at the big corner 5m left of "Sleeping Boy Catches No Fish". Climb up the slab until you reach the bottom of the big corner, place gear, then pull through the crux to get into the corner. Follow the corner crack up for 10m until the crack closes off then move right 4m to a #1 cam placement. This is going be your last solid piece for a while. Climb slab, (tri cams, small cams in pockets and wires in slots, #3 cam in corner higher up). Once at the big roof traverse right under the roof then up to the belay of "Sleeping Boy”. |
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| 8 | 8Sleeping boy catches no fish, 21 | 21 | 90m | 16 |
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The climb is found around the corner about 10M to the left of Kookmeyers. Getting through the bush to it can be 'interesting'. Slab climb, fantastic varied climbing a real star line. The crux is getting off the ground. 16 Draws and extend the middle ones were the climb dog legs. Finishes on a large ledge with 2 possible options. Climb the “Links Effect at grade 18 or continue up the steep little corner at grade 21.
Start just left of the belay, climbing the ramp and ledge system that leads to the large corner. Climb the corner and right face, then move left above the 4th bolt (crux). Traverse under the roof on to the left arête. Easy climbing to DBC belay
A fantastic finish to a fantastic line, climbs the left face and arête. A difficult start sequence then pull through the over-hanging block and blast up the head wall. DBC belay. From the belay a quick scramble to the top (best stay on belay for this one). Original climb as a separate line with an abseil approach. |
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| The Links Effect, 18 | 18 | 100m | 16 |
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A three pitch link up from top to bottom, a delightful climb that the girls
Climb “Sleeping Boy catches no fish.
From the belay of “Sleeping boy” move out right clip 2 bolts then boldly drop over the edge into the over hung corner, follow the ramp up and right past 5 more bolts till you come to the end of the roof ( 2nd Pitch of Wind dancer) Pull over the lip (crux) then follow the line of bolts right to the belay of “Top Pitch”.
From the ledge climb the face on bulges, harder than it looks 4 bolts |
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| 1 | 1Te Punga, 24 | 24 | 85m | 14 |
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My favourite and great on a winter afternoon or summer morning. Just right of the main arete at the bottom of the hill. Fantastic - A hard start followed by a techniques lesson right to the very finish. Very photogenic too. 14 bolts 1 pitch 25 meters. Personally, I cheat clip (aid climb) the second bolt to avoid hitting the rock close by on the ground.
Climb easy ground up the overhanging corner. Move onto the left wall and climb the crack and grove to the belay ledge of “Sleeping Boys”. Traverse right as for “The Links Effect” onto the ramp then climb the over-hanging head wall on the left. Climb past 4 bokts on head wall, crux between 3rd and 4th. Belay on large ledge system (Triple bolt belay). You may opt to break the pitch in two, to cut down on rope drag, recommended
Move right then blast through the roof moving back left up the steep ground above, Try the no feet hang with 75m of air, Outrageous. Easier finish to Triple bolt belay. All 3 pitch’s combined to make an endurance workout like no other. |
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| 2 | 2Wind-dancer, 24 | 24 | 60m | 8 |
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A fine line. Go up the left veering ramp and look for the bolts on the left. Don’t use a quick-draw on the third bolt as it makes the rope catch on a rock and creates serious drag later on and extending doesn't help. This climb should be called scorpian as it has a sting in the tail.
Closed Project direct up through 2 roofs system. |
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| Left Foot Dancer, 21 | 21 | 30m | 12 |
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An alternative finish to the 2nd Pitch of “Wind Dancer”. Climb the 2nd pitch of Wind Dancer to the 2nd roof. Pull up onto the roof but keep traversing left until you can rock onto the sloping ledge, climb face and groove above to DBC belay. If you are not careful rope drag can be excessive so extend extend extend or break into 2 pitch’s (recommended). 8 Bolts of Wind Dancer + 4 on left Foot. 60m Abseil to ground. |
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| Top Pitch, 18 | 18 | 15m | 4 |
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From the ledge climb the face on bulges, hared than it look 4 bolts (see Links Effect). |
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| 3 | 3Wilbur's Cousin, 19 | 19 | 16 |
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Shares first 4/5 bolts with Wilbur and then veers left. Bring a long draw to extend 3rd - 5th bolts and bolt 10 and 11. A phenomenal route, just a few problems with rope drag if you don't extend draws - the bolts are in the best places for the most solid rock. Bring about 14-16 draws. |
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| 4 | 4Nice Touch Wilbur, 18 | 18 | 27m | 16 |
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Superb, only it is often dripping many days after rain. Bring 16 draws. Up and right after 4th bolt, extend 4th and 7th quickdraws to avoid drag later on. |
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| 5 | 5Open Project | 10m | 3 |
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Short 10M face with 3 bolts, but not lots of holds. |
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