Main Cliff

(18 routes)

The track meets the cliff at the line of Première and this area has the highest concentration of routes to date. Three historical routes are found down the left (west end) of the cliff. From left to right

Type: 
Wall
Aspect: 
South East
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Edit link
Arete Route 15
0
wire representing trad
At least one early ascent was made by members of the Auckland Rock Group in the early 1970’s. Later ascents were also made by Roger Greene around 1990 while he was teaching in New Zealand. Some nails hammered into the base of the rock mark Roger's possible routes.
Auckland Rock Group, early 1970’s.
Midnight Summer Dream 16 , , , 80m
0
wire representing trad
The route starts up an obvious rib to the left of the clean white rock, and continues up a groove.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
11615mYes
 Start up the corner on the right of the rib, then move left onto the rib. Good holds up to a belay ledge with a good spike anchor and a rust piton directly above.
220mNo
 Climb the groove to the right of the piton, crux, no protection! Traverse right above the overhanging rock to a small doubtful looking ledge, and belay.
320mNo
 Continue directly up the face and groove. Step right before traversing left to the large belay ledge. DBC.
425mNo
 Continue on easier, but vegetated, ground to the top of the ridge, then traverse right and up a final small wall. Head-lamps may be useful! Protection bolts were added in 2002. Descend by walking across the top of the buttress, back to the track. Or abseil down to the top of the third pitch with a 40m abseil from here to the ground.
Grant Pearson & Jeff Hall 25-Apr-1987
Original Route 16 , , , 70m
0
wire representing trad 1
This route starts with the first pitch of "Midnight Summer Dream" and continues directly up to join "Midnight Summer Dream" for the last pitch.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
11615mYes
 As for "Midnight Summer Dream".
215mNo
 Climb directly up past two old pitons onto a small ledge, and belay. (see piton image below)
315mNo
 Continue up a groove, stepping left to continue up easy but vegetated ground to the large belay ledge.
425mNo
 As for "Midnight Summer Dream".
Bung light 22 25m
2.01
10bolts
The line starts 20m to the left of Demo of Bosh. Follow the obvious line of bolts up the face (crux) than climb slightly to the arete on the left and back onto the face to the top.
Stefan Geissdoerfer (15.02.2014)
Demo of Bosh 19 ,15
1.02
15bolts
Down at the main climbing area. start 30m left (down the hill) from where track meets the cliff at “Première”.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
1190m10No
 Traverse out left on a rata covered ledge to the first bolt, then move up and left to the second bolt. From here the line of bolts heads straight up the face however the climbing does weave its way up the line of weakness. At about the 10th bolt move out right to a large ledge and DBC belay
2150m5No
 Step back left then climb the groove to the roof, traverse left around the roof and then up the groove, easy climbing to top.
Kevin Barrat, Richard Knot (alternate leads)
The Power of Persuasion 21 30m
1.02
14bolts
Start just right of Demo of Bosh. Climb up the right side of the small cave then move left across the lip of cave onto the wall. Steady climbing with a couple of steep sections (crux’s) lands you on the belay ledge of Climba Sutra. From here step left clip the bolt and climb the steep arête. Easy climbing gets you to the DBC belay of the 1st pitch of Demo the Bosh.
Brian Mercer April 2012
Climba Sutra 20 25m
2.01
8bolts
Climbs the white rock underneath the large roof system. Follow the line of bolts out to the left hand end of the roof. From here powerful but delightful moves lead through the small roof. Continue up the steep ground above to the DBC belay.
Brian Mercer and Cliff Ellery, 21 Feb 2010
Pioneer Route 15 12m
0
2bolts wire representing trad
A 2 bolt climb lead “on site” to gain access to the belay ledge of Buckle and Au Reviour. Yhe top section is now climbed as part of Ladies and Gentlemen. (Pro: 2 bolt, Wires, Cams DBC belay)
Stephen Barratt 2005
Buckle 17 12m
0
7bolts
Climb straight up the buttress directly below the roof to the belay of Pioneer Route. (Pro 7 bolts) 21 Feb 2010
Cliff Ellery, Madeleine Van Den Braak and Dylan Ball,
Under Pressure 27
0
4bolts
Having climbed Buckle stay left and blast through the roof. (Pro 4 bolts)
Rich Morgan
Age Concerm 18 30m
0
9bolts
2m to the right , The next 3 routes share the same belay. Climb the deep groove, at the 6th bolt move left to the belay of Buckle for a delightful grade 15 or continue up and right past 2 more bolts to join the finishing groove of Au Revoir. (Pro 9 bolts) Bryce Martin &
Cliff Ellery 18 section, Wendy Martin and Jamie 15 section. 16 Jan 2012
Au Revoir 19 25m
1.02
6bolts
Climb the blunt arete and steep face. Move left near the top and climb the red rock and groove to the DBC Belay. (Pro 6 bolts)
Kevin Barratt 2005
Première 21 ,21 50m
3
15bolts
Climb up the low angle ramp past one bolt then move left to second bolt and blast up the steep ground above. Getting to and past the 3rd bolt is the crux, however the move through the roof takes a bit of commitment. DBC Belay 6 bolts
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
12125m6No
 Climb up the low angle ramp past one bolt then move left to second bolt and blast up the steep ground above. Getting to and past the 3rd bolt is the crux, however the move through the roof takes a bit of commitment. DBC Belay 6 bolts
22125m9No
 Move right and climb the corner then move lef at second bolts onto the wall. Climb the wall and blunt arête above, do not move right into groove of Bring Back Buck. Continue up steep arête on big holds to the DBC belay of Bring Back Buck.
Stephen Barratt 2006
Bring Back Buck 19 ,18 50m
1.02
14bolts
Start as for Preimere but stay right after first bolt. Clip second bolt then traverse right above the roof past the 3rd bolt to the large ledge (crux). From here climb up the steep groove, move right at the last bolt then up the ramp to DBC belay.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
11930m8No
 Start as for Preimere but stay right after first bolt. Clip second bolt then traverse right above the roof past the 3rd bolt to the large ledge (crux). From here climb up the steep groove, move right at the last bolt then up the ramp to DBC belay.
21820m6No
 Climb the face then bridge groove.
Pitch 1 Cliff Ellery, Brian Mercer, Dylan Ball. Nov 2009
Pass the Buck 20 ,20 ,18 80m
2.01
15bolts
Start 10m right of BBB. Climb groove right of lower roof. Continue up the face tending right then through blocky ground to the belay ledge and DCB belay.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
12025m8No
 Start 10m right of BBB. Climb groove right of lower roof. Continue up the face tending right then through blocky ground to the belay ledge and DCB belay.
22025m7No
 Climb up the ledge to the right of the belay, clip second bolt then move left and power through the over hanging rock to the large sloping ledge. Traverse right and then up through groove (awkward). Follow the groove moving right at the top to the DBC belay.
31830mNo
 An Alpine experience. Climb up the steep rock onto a ledge system, then climb the face and left arête. At the top of the arte move right and scramble up slab to double bolt belay.
Cliff Ellery, Dylan. Dec 2009, Cliff Ellery & Rachel.Mayne 22 Dec 2009,
Red line “n” it at buck 17 ,21 30m
1.02
10bolts
10m to the right. Follow a rough track up and right to a ledge system. Climb the face and groove to the belay ledge of “Pass the Buck”. (pro 5 bolts)
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
11720m6No
 10m to the right. Follow a rough track up and right to a ledge system. Climb the face and groove to the belay ledge of “Pass the Buck”. (pro 5 bolts)
22110m4No
 Clip the first bolt of Pass Buck then move right on easy ground to 2nd bolt. Lay off the right arte and pull up through steep ground to DBC belay. Can be climbed as one pitch if you clip belay on a long sling.
Richard Knott , Stewart Hope. 21 Feb 2010.
Bucking Fumblies 20 ,21 ,19 65m
2.01
18bolts
Climb the face to the left of the arete, up through the deep groove. At the 9th bolt move right onto the arete and up to the belay. Scramble up ledge to belay.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
12025m10No
 Climb the face to the left of the arete, up through the deep groove. At the 9th bolt move right onto the arete and up to the belay. Scramble up ledge to belay.
22125m8No
 The left hand line goes at 17 and takes the groove above the belay. The right hand line (21) climbs the steep white face out right. At the 4th bolt both lines meet and easy climbing up face above then through steep groove, to large ledge out right and DBC.
31915mNo
 Climb steep groove to large flake in roof. Climb through this breaking right at the top. Move up and right then scramble up to belay and DCB,
Cliff Ellery Richard Knot March 2011, Cliff Ellery, Bryan Mercer, Mark Ashurst 31 July 2011.
Big Stone 20 ,22 60m
3
20bolts
From the point the access track meet the mine shaft. Scramble up a rough track to the right. Climb a fixed rope to ledge and the start of Big Stone.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
12030m10No
 A steep start, move left then right at the lip. Continue up easier ground into the left groove, Bridge up the groove then move right onto face. Difficult climbing up the steep head wall to the large ledge and DBC belay, (10 bolts). Once you have brought your climbing partner up to the belay move left across the ledge, scale the small fin of rock and drop into the large alcove and the belay for the 2nd Pitch.
22230m10No
 Bloody outrageous climbing some of the best at the crag. Climb up through the steep groove clip the bolt under the roof then move out left grab the horn and mantel into the upper groove. At the top of the groove move right onto head wall and then climb straight up past a series of ledges . Note, the top 2 bolts are obscured from view from below, DBC.
Cliff Ellery, Jess Dobson & Bryan Mercer Jan 2014
Attribution: 
Cliff Ellery - Freeclimb.co.nz