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Main Cliff

Type
Part of

The track meets the cliff at the line of Première and this area has the highest concentration of routes to date. Three historical routes are found down the left (west end) of the cliff. From left to right

Image
Aspect
South East
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Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Operations
 Arete Route, 15 15
0

  • P1
  • 15
  • Trad

At least one early ascent was made by members of the Auckland Rock Group in the early 1970’s. Later ascents were also made by Roger Greene around 1990 while he was teaching in New Zealand. Some nails hammered into the base of the rock mark Roger's possible routes.


 Midnight Summer Dream, 16 16 80m
0

The route starts up an obvious rib to the left of the clean white rock, and
continues up a groove.


  • P1
  • 16
  • 15m
  • Trad

Start up the corner on the right of the rib, then move left onto the rib. Good holds up to a belay ledge with a good spike anchor and a rust piton directly above.


  • P2
  • 20m

Climb the groove to the right of the piton, crux, no protection! Traverse right above the overhanging rock to a small doubtful looking ledge, and belay.


  • P3
  • 20m

Continue directly up the face and groove. Step right before traversing left to the large belay ledge. DBC.


  • P4
  • 25m

Continue on easier, but vegetated, ground to the top of the ridge, then traverse right and up a final small wall. Head-lamps may be useful! Protection bolts were added in 2002. Descend by walking across the top of the buttress, back to the track. Or abseil down to the top of the third pitch with a 40m abseil from here to the ground.


 Original Route, 16 16 70m
0

This route starts with the first pitch of "Midnight Summer Dream" and
continues directly up to join "Midnight Summer Dream" for the last pitch.


  • P1
  • 16
  • 15m
  • Trad

As for "Midnight Summer Dream".


  • P2
  • 15m

Climb directly up past two old pitons onto a small ledge, and belay. (see piton image below)


  • P3
  • 15m

Continue up a groove, stepping left to continue up easy but vegetated ground to the large belay ledge.


  • P4
  • 25m

As for "Midnight Summer Dream".


 Bung light, 22 22 25m 10
2.01

  • P1
  • 22
  • 25m
  • 10

The line starts 20m to the left of Demo of Bosh. Follow the obvious line of bolts up the face (crux) than climb slightly to the arete on the left and back onto the face to the top.


 Demo of Bosh, 19 19 10
1.02

Down at the main climbing area. start 30m left (down the hill) from where
track meets the cliff at “Première”.


  • P1
  • 19
  • 10

Traverse out left on a rata covered ledge to the first bolt, then move up and left to the second bolt. From here the line of bolts heads straight up the face however the climbing does weave its way up the line of weakness. At about the 10th bolt move out right to a large ledge and DBC belay


  • P2
  • 15
  • 5

Step back left then climb the groove to the roof, traverse left around the roof and then up the groove, easy climbing to top.


 The Power of Persuasion, 21 21 30m 14
1.02

  • P1
  • 21
  • 30m
  • 14

Start just right of Demo of Bosh. Climb up the right side of the small cave then move left across the lip of cave onto the wall. Steady climbing with a couple of steep sections (crux’s) lands you on the belay ledge of Climba Sutra. From here step left clip the bolt and climb the steep arête. Easy climbing gets you to the DBC belay of the 1st pitch of Demo the Bosh.


 Climba Sutra, 20 20 25m 8
2.01

  • P1
  • 20
  • 25m
  • 8

Climbs the white rock underneath the large roof system. Follow the line of bolts out to the left hand end of the roof. From here powerful but delightful moves lead through the small roof. Continue up the steep ground above to the DBC belay.


 Pioneer Route, 15 15 12m 2
0

  • P1
  • 15
  • 12m
  • 2
  • Trad

A 2 bolt climb lead “on site” to gain access to the belay ledge of Buckle and Au Reviour. Yhe top section is now climbed as part of Ladies and Gentlemen. (Pro: 2 bolt, Wires, Cams DBC belay)


 Buckle, 17 17 12m 7
0

  • P1
  • 17
  • 12m
  • 7

Climb straight up the buttress directly below the roof to the belay of Pioneer Route. (Pro 7 bolts) 21 Feb 2010


 Under Pressure, 27 27 4
0

  • P1
  • 27
  • 4

Having climbed Buckle stay left and blast through the roof. (Pro 4 bolts)


 Age Concerm, 18 18 30m 9
0

  • P1
  • 18
  • 30m
  • 9

2m to the right , The next 3 routes share the same belay. Climb the deep groove, at the 6th bolt move left to the belay of Buckle for a delightful grade 15 or continue up and right past 2 more bolts to join the finishing groove of Au Revoir. (Pro 9 bolts) Bryce Martin &


 Au Revoir, 19 19 25m 6
1.02

  • P1
  • 19
  • 25m
  • 6

Climb the blunt arete and steep face. Move left near the top and climb the red rock and groove to the DBC Belay. (Pro 6 bolts)


 Première, 21 21 50m 9
3

  • P1
  • 21
  • 25m
  • 6

Climb up the low angle ramp past one bolt then move left to second bolt and blast up the steep ground above. Getting to and past the 3rd bolt is the crux, however the move through the roof takes a bit of commitment. DBC Belay 6 bolts


  • P2
  • 21
  • 25m
  • 9

Move right and climb the corner then move lef at second bolts onto the wall. Climb the wall and blunt arête above, do not move right into groove of Bring Back Buck. Continue up steep arête on big holds to the DBC belay of Bring Back Buck.


 Bring Back Buck, 19 19 50m 8
1.02

  • P1
  • 19
  • 30m
  • 8

Start as for Preimere but stay right after first bolt. Clip second bolt then continue to traverse right to the third. Move above the roof up past the 3rd bolt to the large ledge. From here climb up the steep groove, there are a few bolts up the grove (crux), staying right to not cross routes. The DBC belay is over a ledge to the right of the large phallic pillar.


  • P2
  • 18
  • 20m
  • 6

Climb the face then bridge groove. The last bolt before DBC belay has a bit more of a gap to it.


 Pass the Buck, 20 20 80m 8
2.01

  • P1
  • 20
  • 25m
  • 8

Start 10m right of BBB. Climb groove right of lower roof. Continue up the face tending right then through blocky ground to the belay ledge and DCB belay.


  • P2
  • 20
  • 25m
  • 7

Climb up the ledge to the right of the belay, clip second bolt then move left and power through the over hanging rock to the large sloping ledge. Traverse right and then up through groove (awkward). Follow the groove moving right at the top to the DBC belay.


  • P3
  • 18
  • 30m

An Alpine experience. Climb up the steep rock onto a ledge system, then climb the face and left arête. At the top of the arte move right and scramble up slab to double bolt belay.


 Red line “n” it at buck, 21 21 30m 6
1.02

  • P1
  • 17
  • 20m
  • 6

10m to the right. Follow a rough track up and right to a ledge system. Climb the face and groove to the belay ledge of “Pass the Buck”. (pro 5 bolts)


  • P2
  • 21
  • 10m
  • 4

Clip the first bolt of Pass Buck then move right on easy ground to 2nd bolt. Lay off the right arte and pull up through steep ground to DBC belay. Can be climbed as one pitch if you clip belay on a long sling.


 Bucking Fumblies, 21 21 65m 10
2.01

  • P1
  • 20
  • 25m
  • 10

Climb the face to the left of the arete, up through the deep groove. At the 9th bolt move right onto the arete and up to the belay. Scramble up ledge to belay.


  • P2
  • 21
  • 25m
  • 8

The left hand line goes at 17 and takes the groove above the belay. The right hand line (21) climbs the steep white face out right. At the 4th bolt both lines meet and easy climbing up face above then through steep groove, to large ledge out right and DBC.


  • P3
  • 19
  • 15m

Climb steep groove to large flake in roof. Climb through this breaking right at the top. Move up and right then scramble up to belay and DCB,


 Big Stone, 22 22 60m 10
3

From the point the access track meet the mine shaft. Scramble up a rough
track to the right. Climb a fixed rope to ledge and the start of Big Stone.


  • P1
  • 20
  • 30m
  • 10

A steep start, move left then right at the lip. Continue up easier ground into the left groove, Bridge up the groove then move right onto face. Difficult climbing up the steep head wall to the large ledge and DBC belay, (10 bolts). Once you have brought your climbing partner up to the belay move left across the ledge, scale the small fin of rock and drop into the large alcove and the belay for the 2nd Pitch.


  • P2
  • 22
  • 30m
  • 10

Bloody outrageous climbing some of the best at the crag. Climb up through the steep groove clip the bolt under the roof then move out left grab the horn and mantel into the upper groove. At the top of the groove move right onto head wall and then climb straight up past a series of ledges . Note, the top 2 bolts are obscured from view from below, DBC.


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Comments
Attribution
Cliff Ellery - Freeclimb.co.nz
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417c4268-af5a-4ecd-af82-5a05bd88f12d