The first two climbs start off the far end of the top area. The others are started by slithering down the scree to the area below the waterfall.
Routes
Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Pro | Quality | Alert | Operations |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | 1Fracking, 27 | 27 | 8m | 6 | |||
Climb the steep, bolted crack to the Krakatoa anchor – with well-taped hands. Awaits a trad ascent! |
|||||||
2 | 2Gastonbury, 29 | 29 | 9m | 7 | |||
Start off the launch platform and traverse out above the void into rapidly increasing exposure. There is a fierce boulder problem featuring a formerly famous gaston standing between you and success. |
|||||||
3 | 3Snake Oil, 30 | 30 | 14m | 9 | |||
A massive send by Regan ‘devil-dog’ McCaffery. Start off the launch platform and traverse out as per Gastonbury. Match the gaston and proceed further right to steep blocky Charlatan country. Pounce up to a rest on the lip and finish as per The Charlatan project. |
|||||||
4 | 4Burning Man, 30 | 30 | 20m | 13 | |||
Undoubtedly one of the most outrageous sport lines in the whole country, rock quality notwithstanding. Tackles the near horizontal groove/ramp feature straight out the longest and steepest part of the wall. Those expecting a straightforward sport route do so at their own peril. This was JP’s pet project until his spine-snapping fall in France. He gave it up to JC who took exactly a year to work out all the jams and kneebars and then send it. |
|||||||
5 | 5The Charlatan, 30 | 30 | 20m | 7 | |||
Project. Starts as per Burning Man but breaks out right (as you look from the belay) at about halfway via a low percentage boulder problem through the shark’s mouth features. Equipped by Ewan Sinclair before his posting to the Korean border. |
|||||||
6 | 6Koha, 27 | 27 | 18m | 10 | |||
Think of it as ‘a trad ramble on bolts’. Starts right of Burning Man and climbs diagonally right through the wild blocky terrain adjacent to the waterfall. |
|||||||
7 | 7The Wraith, 28 | 28 | 18m | 10 | |||
Surge out of the overhang just under the waterfall, to a burly, footless crux. nutty! |