The first two climbs start off the far end of the top area. The others are started by slithering down the scree to the area below the waterfall.
Type:
Wall

Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Quality | Bolts | Gone | Natural pro | Link to edit content | ||
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1 | Fracking | 27 | 8m |
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Climb the steep, bolted crack to the Krakatoa anchor – with well-taped hands. Awaits a trad ascent!
Kisten Foley, 2013
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2 | Gastonbury | 29 | 9m |
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Start off the launch platform and traverse out above the void into rapidly increasing exposure. There is a fierce boulder problem featuring a formerly famous gaston standing between you and success.
James Field-Mitchell, 2011 (Equipped by Jonathon Clearwater and Ewan Sinclair)
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3 | Snake Oil | 30 | 14m |
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A massive send by Regan ‘devil-dog’ McCaffery. Start off the launch platform and traverse out as per Gastonbury. Match the gaston and proceed further right to steep blocky Charlatan country. Pounce up to a rest on the lip and finish as per The Charlatan project.
Regan McCaffery, 2012
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4 | Burning Man | 30 | 20m |
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Undoubtedly one of the most outrageous sport lines in the whole country, rock quality notwithstanding. Tackles the near horizontal groove/ramp feature straight out the longest and steepest part of the wall. Those expecting a straightforward sport route do so at their own peril. This was JP’s pet project until his spine-snapping fall in France. He gave it up to JC who took exactly a year to work out all the jams and kneebars and then send it.
Jonathan Clearwater, 2011 (Equippped by John Palmer)
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5 | The Charlatan | 30 | 20m |
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Project. Starts as per Burning Man but breaks out right (as you look from the belay) at about halfway via a low percentage boulder problem through the shark’s mouth features. Equipped by Ewan Sinclair before his posting to the Korean border.
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6 | Koha | 27 | 18m |
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Think of it as ‘a trad ramble on bolts’. Starts right of Burning Man and climbs diagonally right through the wild blocky terrain adjacent to the waterfall.
Ewan Sinclair, 2010
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7 | The Wraith | 28 | 18m |
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Surge out of the overhang just under the waterfall, to a burly, footless crux. nutty!
Pnut Steens, 2012 (Equipped by James Field-Mitchell)
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