Lower Tier

(7 routes)

The first two climbs start off the far end of the top area. The others are started by slithering down the scree to the area below the waterfall.

Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
1 Fracking 27 8m
Climb the steep, bolted crack to the Krakatoa anchor – with well-taped hands. Awaits a trad ascent!
Kisten Foley, 2013
2 Gastonbury 29 9m
Start off the launch platform and traverse out above the void into rapidly increasing exposure. There is a fierce boulder problem featuring a formerly famous gaston standing between you and success.
James Field-Mitchell, 2011 (Equipped by Jonathon Clearwater and Ewan Sinclair)
3 Snake Oil 30 14m
A massive send by Regan ‘devil-dog’ McCaffery. Start off the launch platform and traverse out as per Gastonbury. Match the gaston and proceed further right to steep blocky Charlatan country. Pounce up to a rest on the lip and finish as per The Charlatan project.
Regan McCaffery, 2012
4 Burning Man 30 20m
Undoubtedly one of the most outrageous sport lines in the whole country, rock quality notwithstanding. Tackles the near horizontal groove/ramp feature straight out the longest and steepest part of the wall. Those expecting a straightforward sport route do so at their own peril. This was JP’s pet project until his spine-snapping fall in France. He gave it up to JC who took exactly a year to work out all the jams and kneebars and then send it.
Jonathan Clearwater, 2011 (Equippped by John Palmer)
5 The Charlatan 30 20m
Project. Starts as per Burning Man but breaks out right (as you look from the belay) at about halfway via a low percentage boulder problem through the shark’s mouth features. Equipped by Ewan Sinclair before his posting to the Korean border.
6 Koha 27 18m
Think of it as ‘a trad ramble on bolts’. Starts right of Burning Man and climbs diagonally right through the wild blocky terrain adjacent to the waterfall.
Ewan Sinclair, 2010
7 The Wraith 28 18m
Surge out of the overhang just under the waterfall, to a burly, footless crux. nutty!
Pnut Steens, 2012 (Equipped by James Field-Mitchell)