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Lower Tier

Type
Part of

The first two climbs start off the far end of the top area. The others are started by slithering down the scree to the area below the waterfall.

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Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Operations
1 1Fracking, 27 27 8m 6
0

  • P1
  • 27
  • 8m
  • 6

Climb the steep, bolted crack to the Krakatoa anchor – with well-taped hands. Awaits a trad ascent!


2 2Gastonbury, 29 29 9m 7
2.01

  • P1
  • 29
  • 9m
  • 7

Start off the launch platform and traverse out above the void into rapidly increasing exposure. There is a fierce boulder problem featuring a formerly famous gaston standing between you and success.


3 3Snake Oil, 30 30 14m 9
1.02

  • P1
  • 30
  • 14m
  • 9

A massive send by Regan ‘devil-dog’ McCaffery. Start off the launch platform and traverse out as per Gastonbury. Match the gaston and proceed further right to steep blocky Charlatan country. Pounce up to a rest on the lip and finish as per The Charlatan project.


4 4Burning Man, 30 30 20m 13
3

  • P1
  • 30
  • 20m
  • 13

Undoubtedly one of the most outrageous sport lines in the whole country, rock quality notwithstanding. Tackles the near horizontal groove/ramp feature straight out the longest and steepest part of the wall. Those expecting a straightforward sport route do so at their own peril. This was JP’s pet project until his spine-snapping fall in France. He gave it up to JC who took exactly a year to work out all the jams and kneebars and then send it.


5 5The Charlatan, 30 30 20m 7
0

  • P1
  • 30
  • 20m
  • 7

Project. Starts as per Burning Man but breaks out right (as you look from the belay) at about halfway via a low percentage boulder problem through the shark’s mouth features. Equipped by Ewan Sinclair before his posting to the Korean border.


6 6Koha, 27 27 18m 10
1.02

  • P1
  • 27
  • 18m
  • 10

Think of it as ‘a trad ramble on bolts’. Starts right of Burning Man and climbs diagonally right through the wild blocky terrain adjacent to the waterfall.


7 7The Wraith, 28 28 18m 10
0

  • P1
  • 28
  • 18m
  • 10

Surge out of the overhang just under the waterfall, to a burly, footless crux. nutty!


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