The smooth andesite walls of this crag offer the connoisseur of technical, sequence-based climbing the promise of a rewarding day at the crag, in a wild mountain location. The wall was discovered on an expedition by Kristen Foley, John Palmer and Dan Pringle in the late summer of 2010. Routes began springing up immediately as the Wellingtonians were keen to have more quality route climbing closer to home. Although the routes are all bolted, this is definitely not a consumer crag. But some will find the extreme and isolated location only adds to the experience.
From the Tukino Alpine Sports Club lodge, walk south-east down the ridgeline below the hut. After 10 minutes or so the cliff should be visible down to your right, in the valley and across the Whangaehu River. Drift right down the slope into the gorge and cross the river with caution above the waterfall. From here, follow a spine of rock down to where it leads below the cliff.
Note that this crag lies in the main lahar channel of an active volcano and being at the crag during a breach of the crater wall would have serious consequences. While it is unlikely you'll be at the crag in heavy rain when the odds of this are higher, it is still prudent to check the Geonet warnings around the status of the volcano before visiting the crag.
Routes
| Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Pro | Quality | Operations |
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| 1 | 1Himawari, 23 | 23 | 14m | 7 |
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Start below the roof and climb slightly right over the lip and up the face above. Once you’ve reached the corner stay left and charge up the blank-looking face via a tricky finishing crux sequence. This climb was originally done with the same start as Komakino and Harakiri, as the direct start can sometimes be wet. The alternative start doesn’t change the grade and is a good option if you encounter the same problem. |
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| 2 | 2Komakino, 23 | 23 | 14m | 8 |
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A brilliant route, robbed of its third star only by the loose rock around the opening section. Start up the corner below the large roof and drift left on the polished face and avoiding going too high to the loose rock. Then head up the left side of the arete via superlative technical climbing. For the full value experience stay on the arête all the way. |
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| 3 | 3Harakiri, 22 | 22 | 13m | 7 |
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start as per Komakino but at the fourth bolt climb right to the groove and then stem your way to the anchor. Equipped by Dan Pringle who then committed project suicide by giving it up. |
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| 4 | 4Fire on the Mountain, 19 | 19 | 17m | 7 |
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A difficult start in the corner leads to some juggy steep ground and the big ledge. From here move delightfully left and then up the slab to the hedgehog cave and anchor. |
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| 5 | 5Route de la Slack, 25 | 25 | 20m | 10 |
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Start up the ramp at the bottom of the recessed groove with edgy moves on bullet stone. From the third bolt step left and go up the steep terrain to a cruxy roof section. Having surmounted that, head left to the vague arête and up the sublime face above. Be prepared for an exhilarating finish! |
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| 6 | 6How Soon Is Now?, 24 | 24 | 20m | 8 |
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Same start as Route de la Slack. Finishes at the Ritual de lo Habitual anchor. |
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| 7 | 7Ritual de la Habitual, 23 | 23 | 20m | 8 |
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Shares the same start as Route de la Slack but heads straight up through the overhang and then drifts right on jugs towards obvious V-groove. Chillax on the ledge for three days and then tackle the final wall past the hueco feature. |
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| 8 | 8Bloc Party, 26 | 26 | 12m | 6 |
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The terrifically blank and glassy wall to the right of the previous start. Tackle this opening boulder problem up the corner (pre-clip second bolt) with some tricky moves. Then rest up on the easier ground in the middle for the final dynamic crux on the left side of the blank, looming shield. |
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| 9 | 9Shoegaze, 27 | 27 | 22m | 9 |
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The prominent central arête and one of the most impressive lines on the wall. start around the corner from Bloc Party in the shallow overhanging groove. Tackle this opening boulder with difficulty and then tip toe up the ramp to a steep section on good holds and to the ledge. Rest up on the ledge and then noodle your way up the steep and blank looming arête to the huge hueco and final face. Take caution on the arête crux as in the event of a tight belay it is possible to swing in and hit the ledge with some force. |
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| 10 | 10File Under Easy Listening, 24 | 24 | 22m | 9 |
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Another classic of the wall, following the obvious seam all the way up the centre of the wall. Excellent rock and excellent moves are only let down by a small flaky section and seepage in the middle. insert your Nike slogan here! |
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| 11 | 11Copper Blue, 26 | 26 | 17m | 6 |
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Start as for the next route but at the third bolt continue straight up towards the bulging roof. From here skirt right and into the hanging groove. |
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| 12 | 12The Jean-Paul Satre Experience, 28 | 28 | 18m | 7 |
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One of the hardest climbs here and a fairly surreal proposition up the blank glazed arête. Weird body-stemming gets you onto the bulge, then gallop up the corner and slightly right to a rest before applying wizardry up the hanging arête. |
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| 13 | 13Bleeding Star, 27 | 27 | 17m | 6 |
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A route of three sections. Relatively easy moves up to the steepness, then a compression boulder problem leads to inverted weirdness in the top groove. |
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| Pump up the Jam, 18 | 18 | |||||
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