This is the stream system draining Margaret's Leap. During winter it fills with snow, but come the thaw a large amount of high quality rock is exposed, particularly on the northern side. There is much potentual for realatively easy two pitch routes on very sound rock. Plenty of natural and trad protection options.
Best approached by traversing south under Tascmaster wall into the gully. There is a little bit os easy scrambling to get into the gully properly.
Routes
Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Pro | Quality | Operations |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | 1... of Troy, 16 | 16 | 70m | |||
Northern Bluff. Start at a grotto that is accessable by an easy scramble from
|
||||||
0 | 0Marg Arete, 7 | 7 | 190m | |||
This route is an ideal family outing being of low difficulty and relatively
Start just left of the waterfall. Up slabs tending right to the crest, then follow
Continue to follow arete to "pass" the gives you good access to "Master Angus Wall"
A little steeper now on cleaner rock. You have a chevel option, or just traverse on leges to the south.
Continue on the arete. Exposure increases slightly. Pitch finishes at the notch before the final pinnacle
Choose your route through the steep exit wall of the notch dependent upon your skills. Follow the rib upto the top of the pinnacle.
Descent can be done by abseil of the top to the pinnacle on the uphill side (or to the north if you want a bigger abseil). Can scramble down easily enough. Best descent down the mountain is on the broken ground/slabs to the north or the arete. |