Leonard Cohen Memorial Buttress

Type

Altitude

1620m

Part of

This crag lies at the foot of the lava flow north of the hut and south of the Mangatoetoenui stream adjacent to the falls from the Mangatoetoenui valley.
There are trad and sport climbs from 8m to 20m in height, grades from 13 to 21 with scope for a few more hard routes. The rock is similar to the Wall of Sound but on a smaller more approachable scale. It has a number of impeccable lines and some good routes for learning to lead.

Discovered by David and Philip Garrity 31/1/16

Leonard Cohen Memorial Buttress is low cliff-line left of waterfall

Caption

Leonard Cohen Memorial Buttress is the low cliff-line left of the far-right waterfall.

Walktime

10 min

Aspect

West

Lat/lon

-39.27359869,175.61524933, NZ Topo Map

Topo50

BJ34 256496

Approach

Approach from the hut by dropping to the ridge, west of all the huts and following it down to the stream(NE direction) then sidling around the next ridge and, keeping your height, head straight across to the top left hand edge of the crag (about 10 minutes there and 15-25 minutes back to hut, depending on how big your load is).
Access to the top is easiest on the left side but there is an easy access scramble left of centre and an access rope at the right hand end. Belays are off boulders scattered across the top of the crag.
Recommended basecamp is at the top as the bottom is very dusty except at far righthand end.

Add Place Add Route

Routes

Reference	Title	Grade	Length	Pro	Quality
1	1Death of a Ladies Man, 13	13	12m		0
P1 13 12m Trad The left most crack, finish up right to the big boulder to belay.
2	2Arlo's Crack, 12	12	12m		2.01
P1 12 12m Trad Stellar route for new trad leaders. Climb the second crack from the left of the crag up immaculate rock with good cracks for protection on your left. Finish up to right to the big boulder.
3	3Right on, 16	16	16m		0
P1 16 16m Trad Awkward first moves lead to an easy ledge and finish by continuing right at the top.
4	4Up To You, 21	21	10m	4	1.02
P1 21 10m 4 Staunch overhanging climb joining the top of Right on.
5	5A Street, 13	13	8m		0
P1 13 8m Trad Climb the wall and cracks 4m right of the access route.
6	6First we take Manhattan, 16	16	8m		0
P1 16 8m Trad Climb the staunch crack to start then the easier cracks to the right leading up onto the pinnacle. Don't exit right up the easy ground.
7	7Ledge in Time, 15	15	14m	4	0
P1 15 14m 4 Follow the bolts 4m right of First we take Manhattan. Steep finish.
8	8Nuts and Bolt, 15	15	14m	1	0
P1 15 14m 1 Trad 2m right of Ledge in Time. Trad after the first bolt.
9	9Playtime, 15	15	16m	4	0
P1 15 16m 4 3m right of Nuts and Bolt.
10	10Broke again, 15	15	16m	4	0
P1 15 16m 4 4m right of Playtime. Hard start.
11	11Don't Go Home With Your Hard On, 18	18	18m	5	1.02
P1 18 18m 5 15m right of Broke again. Follow 5 bolts up a rounded arete. Finish up to the right.
12	12True Love Leaves No Traces, 17	17	18m		1.02
P1 17 18m Trad Climb the corners up to a prominent orange headwall with a left leaning crack. Finish up the arete on the left of the headwall.
13	13project				0
P1 line 4m right of True love... up to the left groove at the top.
14	14Blue Telescope, 16	16	20m	6	0
P1 16 20m 6 12m right of True Love Leaves No Traces
15	15Osteoarthritis, 18	18	20m	7	0
P1 18 20m 7 5m right of Blue Telescope finishing in about the same place.
16	16Keep Off The Grass, 16	16	20m		0
P1 16 20m Trad 5m right of Osteoarthritis. Climb from the right side of the pedestal at the bottom. Follow corners and ledges past two bushes (and some smaller plants) to the top.
17	17Fingerprints, 18	18	20m	1	2.01
P1 18 20m 1 Trad 2m right of Keep Off The Grass. Climb up the right of the bottom pedestal and up right past bolt (crux) and finish up headwall on the right. Pro small wires and cams and 2x1 or 1 and 2 camalot for top moves.
18	18Project No More The One The Boys Missed, 21	21	20m		1.02
P1 21 20m Trad 3m right of Fingerprints. A bouldery crimpy start, this climb comes with 2 cruxes Ist crux climbing to place first runner, this is a 5 rock placement so have it ready on quick draw! Climb up and past to get established in crack sytem. continue up to do a wide high step then pull around arete corner a airy move crux number two. Then continue on up a recessed crack system to top. Belay of a set back Boulder down by roped access route.
19	19You Want It Darker, 18	18	20m		3
P1 18 20m Trad The obvious crack system heading up just past the prow of the buttress. Finish up right of top block.
20	20It's Alright Ma ( I'm only bolting), 17	17	20m	7	2.01
P1 17 20m 7 Climb the groove and face just right of You Want it Darker.
21	21Don't Tell Mother, 20	20	20m		0
P1 20 20m Trad Climb left of the roof onto ledges then up the steep headwall following a thin crack. Climbed onsight with no pre cleaning.
22	22Iodine, 17	17	15m		1.02
P1 17 15m Trad The obvious offwidth to the right of Don't Tell Mother. Climb up and finish left beside the big chockstone. No offwidth grovelling required.
23	23Tukino Time, 15	15	15m	4	0
P1 15 15m 4 Climb the corner 6m right of Iodine.

Images

Leonard Cohen Memorial Buttress left end: routes 1–4

Leonard Cohen Memorial Buttress middle: routes 5–10

Leonard Cohen Memorial Buttress middle: routes 8–14

Leonard Cohen Memorial Buttress right end: routes 11–18

Leonard Cohen Memorial Buttress right end: routes 15–23

Leonard Cohen Memorial Buttress right end: routes 19–23

Comments

David Garrity

Topos now up.

Fri, 31/03/2017 - 15:30 Permalink

David Garrity

More pictures and topos to come.

Thu, 23/03/2017 - 15:37 Permalink

UUID

0f3dd11c-c937-426c-a138-3c7a7fb49008