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French Buttress

Type
Altitude
1800m
Part of

Obvious looking cliff with buttress pillars direct view from TASC Lodge lounge window

Image
Walktime
20min
Aspect
South East
Access

walk along the final bit of ski field vehicle access track then head of south west direction obvious cliff infront of you

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Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Operations
French Buttress French ButtressScrambled Eggs, 12 12 60m 6
1.02

  • P1
  • 12
  • 60m
  • 6
  • Trad

The obvious left buttress before heading up to Tascmaster Wall. Climb the scrambled egg choss pile (4 bolts, not as loose as it sounds) on gigantic jugs and ledges. The mid section is easy scrambling and the headwall has two bolts, the rest on good pro and a nice bollard to belay. An awesome first lead and a rope-stretching 60m climb. Can be done as two pitches: belay just before the final headwall after the middle scrambling section.


 Camp 2015, 16 16 20m
0

  • P1
  • 16
  • 20m
  • Trad

On a small outlier buttress to the north of French Buttress. Passes through a couple of overhangs with some good exposure. Belay on gear. Walk off by scrambling up and to the right.


 Croissant, 12 12 50m 3
0

Route up right hand edge of French Buttress (blue route on picture)


  • P1
  • 11
  • 24m
  • 3

Up the right side slabby arête of the broad orange buttress. 3 bolts, DRB anchor.


  • P2
  • 12
  • 26m
  • 2
  • Trad

Veer right on broken slab, climb up into gully then into left facing corner. Step right onto the blocky arête then up. 2 bolts and trad gear, DRB anchor.


 Cafe Noir, 14 14 51m 4
1.02

Route on left hand edge of French Buttress (green route in picture).


  • P1
  • 13
  • 25m
  • 4

Up the left side arête of the broad orange buttress. 4 bolts, DRB anchor.


  • P2
  • 14
  • 26m
  • 2
  • Trad

Straight up and climb up the white buttress feature, then finish on slab. 2 bolts and trad, DRB anchor.


 French kisses, 16 16 25m
3

From the start of the second pitch of Croissant veer right to a large square rock revealing a crack in the left side. Shares Croissant's anchors. Good range of black diamond cams "0.5" up to "5"


  • P1
  • 16
  • 25m
  • Trad

From the start of the second pitch of Croissant veer right to a large square rock revealing a crack in the left side. Shares Croissant's anchors. Good range of blackdaimond cams "0.5" up to "5"


 Right French Pillar, 15 15 60m
1.02

Climbs the rock to the right of the "Pilier Français" arete.


  • P1
  • 15
  • 20m
  • Trad

Climb on good holds with good protection. The rock is fascinating. It looks loose, but you find it’s exceptionally solid and takes gear well. Belay before it steepens.


  • P2
  • 15
  • 20m
  • Trad

Continue to climb directly up, finally joining the arete truely. Belay just before the final section. Can belay here or finish it off.


  • P3
  • 15
  • 20m

After a step, scramble to a good belay. Exit by traversing north and descending easier ground north of "Camp 2015".


 Splish Splash, 16 16 26m 5
0

  • P1
  • 16
  • 26m
  • 5
  • Trad

Up the wide corner system 5m right of the waterfall. Starts up the flinty-looking slab, going straight up or angling in from the right. Then into the clean left facing corner for a few moves, then stepping right into the main corner system and heading straight up. 5 bolts plus a couple of trad placements - medium wires and cams handy. Take a long sling for a belay bollard a few metres back from the top.


 Choss Corner, 15 15 20m
0

  • P1
  • 15
  • 20m
  • Trad

About 50m right of Splish Splash, attack the loose looking weakness. Good placements all the way and the rock is a lot better than it looks. Belay off large boulders at the top.


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UUID
 
04a6905b-c651-4ee5-952d-57459f161f3b