Sunny North facing crag with shorter bouldery sport routes on good rock. About 10 minutes away from the TASC lodge along the Mangatoetoenui stream. All routes have sport anchors. Generally quite hot and protected from the wind.
Happy to adjust the grades as these get climbed more, just leave a comment.
From the TASC lodge follow the access road to the DAC hut (the lowest lodge). Head down from the hut towards Ngauruhoe but stay on the right side of the ridge until you hit a small access track in between the rocks leading to the Mangatoetoenui river. From here the crag is 50 meters upstream.
Routes
| Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Pro | Quality | Operations |
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| E 'n' L | E 'n' LEdges 'n' Ledges, 16 | 16 | 15m |  |
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Starts with a small boulder problem off the deck. Once at the small ledge with the bush, continue upwards to the #2/#3 cam-sized crack. Belay on the small ledge. |
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| LD | LDLittle Dora, 17 | 17 | 8m | |
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Cute little trad route to practice placing gear. Shared double bolt anchor on the top of the platform. |
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| HP | HPHot Potato, 22 | 22 | 8m | 2 |
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V4/5 boulder on a blank wall with 2 bolts. Cool sequence. Shared anchor on the top of the platform. |
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| A | ADustbowl, 17 | 17 | 14m | 1 |
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Past 1 bolt up into the bowl, then bridge your way up. Either finish right on the anchor of Eureka or head straight up to the bollard. |
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| B | BEureka, 17 | 17 | 12m | 4 |
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Start in the overhang just left of Betelgeuse, find the clipping jug and head out left and up the slabby arete. |
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| C | CBetelgeuse, 22 | 22 | 13m | 4 |
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The overhang, first climbed under a starry night. The corner/sidewall are out. |
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| D | DMeissa, 16 | 16 | 13m | |
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The corner right of Betelgeuse. Shared anchor |
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| E | EAimer sans amour, 22 | 22 | 15m | 5 |
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Crimpy start, delicate middle, burly finish. Excellent |
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| F | FMouse Trap, 20 | 20 | 16m | 5 |
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Hard start leads to adventurous climbing on good holds. Easier to clean the route when the last person climbs it on a top rope.
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| G | GAlter Ego, 24 | 24 | 15m | 5 |
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The overhanging arete. A gym rats delight
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| H | HWaffle Reunion, 19 | 19 | 15m | 5 |
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Right hand of the arrete. Bouldery start leads to easier slab. |
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| BB | BBBlind Mans Bluff, 12 | 12 | 17m | |
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The slabs, has a walk of ledge 3/4 of the way up |
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| SL | SLSnakes and Ladders, 15 | 15 | 17m | |
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Directly above the waterfall |
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Images
