This is a series of crags with a southeast aspect above and to the north of the Aorangi ski tow. It has a number of buttresses and small roofs. The rock is variable with layered fractured sections. Some good hunting (and maybe some cleaning) will reveal a number of routes. Eric Duggan and Iain Burgon climbed four routes in this area in April 2015.
Routes
| Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Pro | Quality | Operations |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Tukino Split, 16 | 16 | 15m |  |
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On the tier above "Dimrill stairs" towards left end of "Shirt Front " bluffs. Ascends the corner and up the obvious splitter crack placing #3, #3.5, and #4 cams. Then easy moves to top where you can belay off boulders. |
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| Tukino Squeeze, 15 | 15 | 14m | |
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At the far right end of the "Shirt Front" cliffs is an obvious offwidth starting off a debris strewn ledge. Easy moves off the ground then a hard move to get established in the offwidth. Can thread the chockstone and place large cams in the back of the crack. Sling a chockstone at the top of the off width and an exposed move out onto easy ground and belay on boulders. Watch out for loose blocks at the top. Walk off to your left down a scree slope. |
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| Aorangi Direct, 16 | 16 | 15m | |
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In between "Tukino Split" and "Tukino Squeeze". Easy moves onto a ledge then a hard move up a crack to a overhanging wall. Head up to the right and belay off boulders. Walk off to your right. |
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| Flake Route, 14 | 14 | 20m | |
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Left of Aorangi Direct. Sparse wires at the start but up flakes and a good holds to cam placements and good wires higher up. Easy moves to top out over slightly overhanging rock. Belay off boulders again. Walk off to your left. |
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Images
