These are the cliffs across the valley from the car park. Much potentual for good rock climbs, but some of the lava layers are shattered.
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South Buttress | 16 | 40m |
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Start to right of buttress, moving left onto the buttress & follow up, generally just left of the crest. The rock is a lot more solid than it looks, but there may be the occasional loose block. Belay at point where turns to talus. Exit by scrambling up for a while then descending the gut to the west.
Don French, Jozef Crosland, 5 January 2015
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1 | Tic Tac Toe | 16,17,19 | 130m |
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A natural line of weakness connects the dots on this distinctive face to create an absorbing climb with three contrasting pitches of increasing difficulty. The route starts just right of the lowest point of the toe of the buttress at the right hand end of the buttress. Initially it follows a leftward-trending line up the centre of the obvious clean curving slab (easily identified from Tukino lodges) before breaking back rightwards where steep moves lead up the line of weakness through the overlap and onto the upper wall. It then continues directly up to finish the difficulties with a punchy short crack before easy ground leads up over another little bluff to belay at an obvious large boulder. Descent: Either walk off or rap from slings on a large boulder above the winter line of bowel wobbler (green line on image, 50m). Note there is loose rock on this rap line - take care when rapping and pulling ropes!
Sandy Britain, Richard Knott, Frances Watling, 6 February 2018
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