Margarets Leap (summer)

(2 routes)

The very prominent cirque that can be seen from the car park.

-39.280217090000, 175.601585060000
BJ34 244 489
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
Spritz 16,16 60m
wire representing trad
Pillar on right of Margaret's Leap. Bound to be a classic.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad

Start in the middle of the space at the base of the pillar. We left room for another route to the left. Good fun climbing on solid rock (15/16). Belay on small wires on a ledge at the same height the resurgence.


Directly up step rock on to easier ground to belay when kicks back. Good bollards for top belay.

Don French, Helen Chapman, 3 January 2015
Wright/Hiscoke/French 18 50m
wire representing trad 3
Left hand end of Margarets Leap, where major rock wall which is slightly scalloped. Climb up cracks at first into slightly overhanging section keeping a relatively straight line. Pass difficulty with s slight move to the right onto easier ground. Belay high up to the left near the crest of the buttress. Short second pitch onto easy ground. Rock OK, but there is the odd loose rock. Route might be longer as first ascent was from a substantial snow base.
James Wright, Blair Hiscoke, Don French, November 2010