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  4. Tongariro
  5. Tūkino Crags
  6. Margaret's Landing

Margaret's Landing

(2 routes)

This is the stream system draining Margaret's Leap. During winter it fills with snow, but come the thaw a large amount of high quality rock is exposed, particularly on the northern side. There is much potentual for realatively easy two pitch routes on very sound rock. Plenty of natural and trad protection options.

Type: 
Wall
Aspect: 
South
Walk time: 
15 minutes
Access: 

Best approached by traversing south under Tascmaster wall into the gully. There is a little bit os easy scrambling to get into the gully properly.

New Zealand map

Map, Topo

Lat/Lon: 
-39.281065440000, 175.603934870000
NZMS260: 
T20 347 105
Topo50: 
BJ34 246 488
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Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
1 ... of Troy 16 70m
0
 wire representing trad 3
Northern Bluff. Start at a grotto that is accessable by an easy scramble from the stream part way up the gully. 1st pitch climb up left onto an arete at first then onto slabs, and finally directly through a small overhang onto a relatively flat area. Good belays on bollards. You are west of a shallow cave. 2nd pitch is nuch easier (10 to 11) up a small step them up on brilliant holds until it eases off. Again belay on good bollards.
Don French, Helen Chapmand 3/1/215
0 Marg Arete 7 ,7 ,7 ,7 ,7 , 190m
2.01
 wire representing trad 2
This route is an ideal family outing being of low difficulty and relatively unexposed. It is about 5 full pitches or a large number of shorter pitches. THere is plenty of scope for natural protection, but there are areas that are not protected. The rock is excellent quality. This arete climb starts low down and on the south side of the the stream draining Margaret Landing. Descending into the base using the natural walking line that traverses from the TASCMaster wall. It is a low arete, almost a fin of rock, that climbs high into the Margarets landing basin. It terminates on top of a small pinnacle at the southern side of the head wall of the Margaret's Leap circ.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
1740mYes
 

Start just left of the waterfall. Up slabs tending right to the crest, then follow
2740mNo
 

Continue to follow arete to "pass" the gives you good access to "Master Angus Wall"
3740mNo
 

A little steeper now on cleaner rock. You have a chevel option, or just traverse on leges to the south.
4740mNo
 

Continue on the arete. Exposure increases slightly. Pitch finishes at the notch before the final pinnacle
5730mNo
 

Choose your route through the steep exit wall of the notch dependent upon your skills. Follow the rib upto the top of the pinnacle.
60mNo
 

Descent can be done by abseil of the top to the pinnacle on the uphill side (or to the north if you want a bigger abseil). Can scramble down easily enough. Best descent down the mountain is on the broken ground/slabs to the north or the arete.

David Garrity (solo)
UUID: 
44a22a5b-0b34-41ce-9254-36d1f2dfaa3a