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Taniwha

Grade
21
Length
65m
11
Natural pro required
Quality
2.01
First ascent
Wim Coosemans, Jess Thorn, February 2021
Topo ref
TW

The overhanging prow on the right side of the waterfall. The first pitch is well bolted and offers excellent steep climbing on jugs. The second pitch is easy but fun with some exposure. You can walk off the top of the 2nd pitch to avoid the last pitch on trad.
It's possible to only do the first pitch by lowering at the first set of anchors and having the second remove the gear on top rope.
When climbing as a multi pitch climb right past the first set of anchors and stop at the big comfortable belay ledge.


  • P1
  • 21
  • 35m
  • 11

High clip the first bolt from the ground using the undercling, traverse pulling on jugs. Climb past the first anchors to the belay ledge. Longer draws can help with rope drag but generally it's not too bad.


  • P2
  • 16
  • 15m
  • 4

From the belay ledge traverse right across the gully. Make sure to put a redirect on the anchor so the belayer doesn't get pulled off and extend the first bolt to reduce drag. The anchor is in the top left corner of the sandy platform. It's possible to walk off from here.


  • P3
  • 15
  • 15m
  • 1
  • Trad

Clip the first bolt standing on the platform. Find good protection in the left gully with small cams in cracks. Make a trad anchor at the top or find the rap rings 10m further up right.


Comments
UUID
 
7ec1bb25-7c27-45af-b461-0fb620d23b47