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This route allows you to climb past two waterfalls to the upper plateau of the Mangatoetoenui George (Dragon Wall, Rehab wall etc). It's one of the most scenic adventure outings in Tukino. The gear is good but before you head out make sure you agree on some form of non verbal communication with your belayer: you can't hear or see each other past the first pitch.
Wim Coosemans & Jessica Thorn, Nov. 2020
The overhanging prow on the right side of the waterfall. The first pitch is well bolted and offers excellent steep climbing on jugs. The second pitch is easy but fun with some exposure. You can walk off the top of the 2nd pitch to avoid the last pitch on trad. It's possible to only do the first pitch by lowering at the first set of anchors and having the second remove the gear on top rope. When climbing as a multi pitch climb right past the first set of anchors and stop at the big comfortable belay ledge.
Wim Coosemans, Jess Thorn, Feb 2021
Two minutes past Leonard Cohen Memorial Buttress is a big face with a waterfall that spits out from the upper Mangatoetoenui Gorge.
From the lodge walk down (East) along the bluffs towards Mount Ngauruhoe and find the big waterfall just past Leonard Cohen Memorial Buttress.