2. NZ
  3. North Island
  4. Tongariro
  5. Tūkino Crags
  6. Leonard Cohen Memorial Buttress

Leonard Cohen Memorial Buttress

(23 routes)

This crag lies at the foot of the lava flow north of the hut and south of the Mangatoetoenui stream adjacent to the falls from the Mangatoetoenui valley.
There are trad and sport climbs from 8m to 20m in height, grades from 13 to 21 with scope for a few more hard routes. The rock is similar to the Wall of Sound but on a smaller more approachable scale. It has a number of impeccable lines and some good routes for learning to lead.

Discovered by David and Philip Garrity 31/1/16

Type: 
Wall
Altitude: 
1620m
Aspect: 
West
Walk time: 
10 min
Access: 

Approach from the hut by dropping to the ridge, west of all the huts and following it down to the stream(NE direction) then sidling around the next ridge and, keeping your height, head straight across to the top left hand edge of the crag (about 10 minutes there and 15-25 minutes back to hut, depending on how big your load is).
Access to the top is easiest on the left side but there is an easy access scramble left of centre and an access rope at the right hand end. Belays are off boulders scattered across the top of the crag.
Recommended basecamp is at the top as the bottom is very dusty except at far righthand end.

New Zealand map

Map, Topo

Lat/Lon: 
-39.273598690000, 175.615249330000
NZMS260: 
T20 357 113
Topo50: 
BJ34 256496
@@@@@@
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
1 Death of a Ladies Man 13 12m
0
 wire representing trad
The left most crack, finish up right to the big boulder to belay.
FFA David Garrity, Bryce Martin 21/3/17
2 Arlo's Crack 12 12m
2.01
 wire representing trad
Stellar route for new trad leaders. Climb the second crack from the left of the crag up immaculate rock with good cracks for protection on your left. Finish up to right to the big boulder.
FFA Bryce Martin, David Garrity 21/3/17
3 Right on 16 16m
0
 wire representing trad
Awkward first moves lead to an easy ledge and finish by continuing right at the top.
FFA David Garrity, Bryce Martin 20/3/17
4 Up To You 21 10m
1.02
 4bolts
Staunch overhanging climb joining the top of Right on.
FFA Bryce Martin, 20/3/17
5 A Street 13 8m
0
 wire representing trad
Climb the wall and cracks 4m right of the access route.
FFA David Garrity, Bryce Martin 20/3/17
6 First we take Manhattan 16 8m
0
 wire representing trad
Climb the staunch crack to start then the easier cracks to the right leading up onto the pinnacle. Don't exit right up the easy ground.
FFA David Garrity, Bryce Martin 21/3/17
7 Ledge in Time 15 14m
0
 4bolts
Follow the bolts 4m right of First we take Manhattan. Steep finish.
FFA Bryce Martin, David Garrity 6/2/17
8 Nuts and Bolt 15 14m
0
 1bolts wire representing trad
2m right of Ledge in Time. Trad after the first bolt.
FFA Bryce Martin, David Garrity 6/2/17
9 Playtime 15 16m
0
 4bolts
3m right of Nuts and Bolt.
FFA Bryce Martin, David Garrity 5/2/17
10 Broke again 15 16m
0
 4bolts
4m right of Playtime. Hard start.
FFA Bryce Martin, David Garrity 5/2/17
11 Don't Go Home With Your Hard On 18 18m
1.02
 5bolts
15m right of Broke again. Follow 5 bolts up a rounded arete. Finish up to the right.
FFA David Garrity, Bryce Martin 6/2/17
12 True Love Leaves No Traces 17 18m
1.02
 wire representing trad
Climb the corners up to a prominent orange headwall with a left leaning crack. Finish up the arete on the left of the headwall.
FFA David Garrity, Bryce Martin 6/2/17
13 project
0
line 4m right of True love... up to the left groove at the top.
14 Blue Telescope 16 20m
0
 6bolts
12m right of True Love Leaves No Traces
FFA Bryce Martin, David Garrity, Ellen Garrity, Rory Weston 30/12/16
15 Osteoarthritis 18 20m
0
 7bolts
5m right of Blue Telescope finishing in about the same place.
FFA Bryce Martin, David Garrity, Philip Garrity 1/2/16
16 Keep Off The Grass 16 20m
0
 wire representing trad
5m right of Osteoarthritis. Climb from the right side of the pedestal at the bottom. Follow corners and ledges past two bushes (and some smaller plants) to the top.
FFA Philip Garrity, David Garrity, Bryce Martin 1/2/16
17 Fingerprints 18 20m
2.01
 1bolts wire representing trad
2m right of Keep Off The Grass. Climb up the right of the bottom pedestal and up right past bolt (crux) and finish up headwall on the right. Pro small wires and cams and 2x1 or 1 and 2 camalot for top moves.
FFA David Garrity, Bryce Martin 21/3/17
18 Project No More The One The Boys Missed 21 20m
1.02
 wire representing trad
3m right of Fingerprints. A bouldery crimpy start, this climb comes with 2 cruxes Ist crux climbing to place first runner, this is a 5 rock placement so have it ready on quick draw! Climb up and past to get established in crack sytem. continue up to do a wide high step then pull around arete corner a airy move crux number two. Then continue on up a recessed crack system to top. Belay of a set back Boulder down by roped access route.
FFA Richard Knott
19 You Want It Darker 18 20m
3
 wire representing trad
The obvious crack system heading up just past the prow of the buttress. Finish up right of top block.
FFA David Garrity, Bryce Martin 30/12/16
20 It's Alright Ma ( I'm only bolting) 17 20m
2.01
 7bolts
Climb the groove and face just right of You Want it Darker.
FFA Bryce Martin, David Garrity 5/2/17
21 Don't Tell Mother 20 20m
0
 wire representing trad
Climb left of the roof onto ledges then up the steep headwall following a thin crack. Climbed onsight with no pre cleaning.
Alex , Bryce Martin, Mitch 30/12/16
22 Iodine 17 15m
1.02
 wire representing trad
The obvious offwidth to the right of Don't Tell Mother. Climb up and finish left beside the big chockstone. No offwidth grovelling required.
FFA David Garrity, Bryce Martin 5/2/17
23 Tukino Time 15 15m
0
 4bolts
Climb the corner 6m right of Iodine.
FFA Bryce Martin, David Garrity 5/2/17
UUID: 
0f3dd11c-c937-426c-a138-3c7a7fb49008

Comments

David Garrity's picture

Submitted by David Garrity on Fri, 31/03/2017 - 15:30

Topos now up.

David Garrity's picture

Submitted by David Garrity on Thu, 23/03/2017 - 15:37

More pictures and topos to come.