
Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Quality | Bolts | Gone | Natural pro | Link to edit content | ||
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1 | Cornered |
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2 | Cracked |
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3 | Grooved |
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4 | Sharpened |
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5 | Shallow |
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6 | Deep |
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7 | Kaiserin’s Inspiration | 14 | 22m |
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Start left of the left-most of two obvious semi-detached pillars. Leaving the deck is tricky, then climb the crack to easier moves before finishing up cracks in a short, steep wall.
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8 | Pillar of the Community | 15 | 22m |
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Climb up over the left-hand pillar, and continue to the top of the crag.
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9 | Acid Rock | 14 | 25m |
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The crack and groove immediately right of the first pillar.
Stu Allan, with OPC students, 1977
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10 | Acid Drop | 16 | 25m |
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Interesting and sometimes tenuous moves up the shallow corner. Protection is adequate, but quite hard to arrange.
Stu Allan, with OPC students, 1977
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11 | Acid Casualty | 18 | 25m |
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Thin crack systems and face climbing up the wall.
Simon Middlemass
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12 | Tawhitikuri | 13 | 25m |
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One of the better routes around for its grade. But let’s not be modest, this gorgeous route stacks up well against climbs at any grade. Launch up a crack system just left of the second, larger pillar. Positive, sustained climbing all the way to the top, and good protection too.
Stu Allan, with OPC students, 1977
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13 | Back to Reality | 20 | 20m |
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The wide crack and face to the right of the pillar.
Dave Moore
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14 | Kumara Patch | 11 | 20m |
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Climb cracks in the wall.
Mook
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15 | Garbage Gully | 6 | 18m |
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Scramble up the gully. Some loose rock at the top.
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16 | Doug’s Corner | 14 | 25m |
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Climb the corner left of the main buttress, then either head right across the ledge system and up, or continue climbing straight up with a steep pull onto the upper wall.
Doug Wilson, late 1970s
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17 | Digital Monsters | 18 | 20m |
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Climb the well-protected buttress in the centre of the right-hand wall (crux). Continue directly up the arête above and finish using cracks in the top wall.
Richard Thomson, 2001
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Rabbit Drop | V1 | 4m |
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Named for reasons that will become obvious to the climber this boulder is found directly under Pehi's Bluff. Rabbit Drop sits on the western aspect while Black Pudding Pizza is on the southern.
Sit start, Strong moves straight up the central crack to mantle onto the face and then an easy top out via the center,
James Smith Oct 2021
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Black Pudding Pizza | V2 | 4m |
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Same Boulder as Rabbit Drop, directly below Pehi's Bluff. BPP is on the southern aspect. Start on the left hand side, move up off the deck, then across following the crack and then up and top out on the right hand side. Be sure to check the top out holds for dirt as a fall would be bad due to the jumble of rocks as the landing zone. Spotters recommended. Center of the boulder can be quite wet.
James Smith Oct 2021
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V for Vaccinate! | VE | 2m |
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Approx 20m down hill of Rabbit Drop Boulder a short little sit start, heal hook problem. Use only the centre roof, none of the others are in.
James Smith Oct 2021
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Ricky Retty | V0 | 4m |
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Large leaning slab boulder beneath Kaiserin’s Inspiration. Slab route on the right hand arete.
James Smith Oct 2021
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