2. NZ
  3. North Island
  4. Tongariro
  5. Mt Ruapehu
  6. Whakapapa
  7. Mead’s Wall
  8. The Back Side

The Back Side

(6 routes)

The eastern side of Mead’s Wall is altogether higher and more spectacular, with plenty of opportunities for more climbing.

Type: 
Wall
Altitude: 
1650m
Aspect: 
East
Walk time: 
15 min
Access: 

To reach the routes on the back side, walk up to the north (left-hand) end of the wall and scramble down a bouldery gully (not the loose scree gully at the lowest point) for about 20 metres.

New Zealand map

Map, Topo

Lat/Lon: 
-39.236308520000, 175.561738010000
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
1 Left Route 18 18m
0
 4bolts
Four bolts to the double bolt anchor at half height. The bottom hanger may be a bit loose. Good holds but quite pumpy.
Paul Rogers, 1999
2 Right Route 19 18m
0
 4bolts
A similarly styled route to Left Route, finishing at the same belay.
Paul Rogers, 1999
3 Top Left 18 20m
0
 wire representing trad
From the belay, climb to the top of the wall on natural gear, climbing first out left and then wandering back right again. Not too flash.
Kester Brown
4 Upper Wall 20 20m
0
 wire representing trad
Climb from the belay to the top of the wall on natural gear. Belay off a large block on the ridge.
Sean Campbell
5 Cave Route 15 40m
0
 wire representing trad
A good adventure can be had by climbing the rib in the centre of the front of Mead’s Wall, abseiling down the back of the wall through a little cave, then climbing back up. May require some cleaning.
Leftwaffe 19 ,18 46m
0
 8bolts wire representing trad
The wall about 20m left of Left Route. Climb straight up towards the big cave at two-thirds height, before tackling the overhanging cookie on its left side. Top out in the cave. Double bolt belay is a couple of metres to the left.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
11926m4Yes
 The wall about 20m left of Left Route. Climb straight up towards the big cave at two-thirds height, before tackling the overhanging cookie on its left side. Top out in the cave. Double bolt belay is a couple of metres to the left.
21820m4Yes
 Up the left hand arete. Trad belay from the top of the wall.
Tom Wilson, Brigid Borlase 2007

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UUID: 
584c2cdd-5f78-4dfc-bb77-841fe42d1095