Mangaturuturu Valley

(1 route)

The wide Mangaturuturu Valley runs through mountain beech forest on the western side of Ruapehu. The northern bank of the river is lined with tall but generally rather mossy looking cliffs. Bill Denz reportedly climbed a line on the bluff immediately opposite Mangaturuturu Hut in 1969, but unfortunately the details are lost.
This section of cliffs is 300m long and 50m high. There is a lifetime of new routes here for anyone with some time and sufficient motivation.
More recently, the Sedon brothers focused their interest on another cliff further upstream. From the hut, cross the river and head upstream, possibly pausing to enjoy a few problems on some large boulders. From here you can see the crag, identifiable by two ‘bunny ears’ that stick out from the top of the cliff. Scramble up an old slip to reach the base.
A corner to the left of the nearly-completed route described below has been cleaned, but not climbed.

Type: 
Crag
Altitude: 
1300m
Aspect: 
South East
Walk time: 
60–90 min
Access: 

The valley is crossed by the Round-the-Mountain Track, and is best reached from Whanganui Corner on the Ohakune Mountain Road. It’s 1–1½ hours walk.

Lat/Lon: 
-39.289970280000, 175.511569980000
NZMS260: 
S20 267 097
Topo50: 
BJ34 166 480
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Edit link
1 Original Route 18 ,18 40m
0
8bolts
This could be an excellent pitch when finished. The rock is clean and some holes for bolts have been drilled . . .
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
11820mNo
 This could be an excellent pitch when finished. The rock is clean and some holes for bolts have been drilled . . .
21820m8No
 Climb to the top of the right bunny ear on fantastically steep and very sound rock. Eight bolts.
Mark Sedon, 1998