Wall of Sound

(14 routes)

The smooth andesite walls of this crag offer the connoisseur of technical, sequence-based climbing the promise of a rewarding day at the crag, in a wild mountain location. The wall was discovered on an expedition by Kristen Foley, John Palmer and Dan Pringle in the late summer of 2010. Routes began springing up immediately as the Wellingtonians were keen to have more quality route climbing closer to home. Although the routes are all bolted, this is definitely not a consumer crag. But some will find the extreme and isolated location only adds to the experience.

Type: 
Crag
Altitude: 
1560m
Aspect: 
North
Walk time: 
15 min
Access: 

From the Tukino Alpine Sports Club lodge, walk south-east down the ridgeline below the hut. After 10 minutes or so the cliff should be visible down to your right, in the valley and across the Whangaehu River. Drift right down the slope into the gorge and cross the river with caution above the waterfall. From here, follow a spine of rock down to where it leads below the cliff.

Lat/Lon: 
-39.284091000000, 175.618043000000
NZMS260: 
T20 359 101
Topo50: 
BJ34 258 484
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Edit link
1 Himawari 23 14m
1.02
7bolts
Start below the roof and climb slightly right over the lip and up the face above. Once you’ve reached the corner stay left and charge up the blank-looking face via a tricky finishing crux sequence. This climb was originally done with the same start as Komakino and Harakiri, as the direct start can sometimes be wet. The alternative start doesn’t change the grade and is a good option if you encounter the same problem.
John Palmer, 2011 (Equipped by Dave Kopp)
2 Komakino 23 14m
2.01
8bolts
A brilliant route, robbed of its third star only by the loose rock around the opening section. Start up the corner below the large roof and drift left on the polished face and avoiding going too high to the loose rock. Then head up the left side of the arete via superlative technical climbing. For the full value experience stay on the arête all the way.
John Palmer, 2011
3 Harakiri 22 13m
1.02
7bolts
start as per Komakino but at the fourth bolt climb right to the groove and then stem your way to the anchor. Equipped by Dan Pringle who then committed project suicide by giving it up.
Tom Hoyle, 2012 (Equipped by Dan Pringle)
4 Fire on the Mountain 19 17m
0
7bolts
A difficult start in the corner leads to some juggy steep ground and the big ledge. From here move delightfully left and then up the slab to the hedgehog cave and anchor.
Kristen Foley, 2011
5 Route de la Slack 25 20m
2.01
10bolts
Start up the ramp at the bottom of the recessed groove with edgy moves on bullet stone. From the third bolt step left and go up the steep terrain to a cruxy roof section. Having surmounted that, head left to the vague arête and up the sublime face above. Be prepared for an exhilarating finish!
John Palmer, 2011
6 How Soon Is Now? 24 20m
0
8bolts
Same start as Route de la Slack. Finishes at the Ritual de lo Habitual anchor.
John Palmer, 2013 (Equipped by Kristen Foley)
7 Ritual de la Habitual 23 20m
2.01
8bolts
Shares the same start as Route de la Slack but heads straight up through the overhang and then drifts right on jugs towards obvious V-groove. Chillax on the ledge for three days and then tackle the final wall past the hueco feature.
Tom Hoyle, 2012
8 Bloc Party 26 12m
0
6bolts
The terrifically blank and glassy wall to the right of the previous start. Tackle this opening boulder problem up the corner (pre-clip second bolt) with some tricky moves. Then rest up on the easier ground in the middle for the final dynamic crux on the left side of the blank, looming shield.
John Palmer, 2012
9 Shoegaze 27 22m
2.01
The prominent central arête and one of the most impressive lines on the wall. start around the corner from Bloc Party in the shallow overhanging groove. Tackle this opening boulder with difficulty and then tip toe up the ramp to a steep section on good holds and to the ledge. Rest up on the ledge and then noodle your way up the steep and blank looming arête to the huge hueco and final face. Take caution on the arête crux as in the event of a tight belay it is possible to swing in and hit the ledge with some force.
Tom Hoyle
10 File Under Easy Listening 24 22m
2.01
9bolts
Another classic of the wall, following the obvious seam all the way up the centre of the wall. Excellent rock and excellent moves are only let down by a small flaky section and seepage in the middle. insert your Nike slogan here!
John Palmer, 2011
11 Copper Blue 26 17m
0
6bolts
Start as for the next route but at the third bolt continue straight up towards the bulging roof. From here skirt right and into the hanging groove.
John Palmer, 2012
12 The Jean-Paul Satre Experience 28 18m
3
7bolts
One of the hardest climbs here and a fairly surreal proposition up the blank glazed arête. Weird body-stemming gets you onto the bulge, then gallop up the corner and slightly right to a rest before applying wizardry up the hanging arête.
John Palmer, 2012
13 Bleeding Star 27 17m
2.01
6bolts
A route of three sections. Relatively easy moves up to the steepness, then a compression boulder problem leads to inverted weirdness in the top groove.
John Palmer, 2012
Pump up the Jam 18
0
Attribution: 
Rock Deluxe North

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