The smooth andesite walls of this crag offer the connoisseur of technical, sequence-based climbing the promise of a rewarding day at the crag, in a wild mountain location. The wall was discovered on an expedition by Kristen Foley, John Palmer and Dan Pringle in the late summer of 2010. Routes began springing up immediately as the Wellingtonians were keen to have more quality route climbing closer to home. Although the routes are all bolted, this is definitely not a consumer crag. But some will find the extreme and isolated location only adds to the experience.
From the Tukino Alpine Sports Club lodge, walk south-east down the ridgeline below the hut. After 10 minutes or so the cliff should be visible down to your right, in the valley and across the Whangaehu River. Drift right down the slope into the gorge and cross the river with caution above the waterfall. From here, follow a spine of rock down to where it leads below the cliff.
Note that this crag lies in the main lahar channel of an active volcano and being at the crag during a breach of the crater wall would have serious consequences. While it is unlikely you'll be at the crag in heavy rain when the odds of this are higher, it is still prudent to check the Geonet warnings around the status of the volcano before visiting the crag.
Routes
| Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Pro | Quality | Operations |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Himawari | 23 | 14m | 7 |
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| 2 | Komakino | 23 | 14m | 8 |
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| 3 | Harakiri | 22 | 13m | 7 |
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| 4 | Fire on the Mountain | 19 | 17m | 7 |
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| 5 | Route de la Slack | 25 | 20m | 10 |
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| 6 | How Soon Is Now? | 24 | 20m | 8 |
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| 7 | Ritual de la Habitual | 23 | 20m | 8 |
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| 8 | Bloc Party | 26 | 12m | 6 |
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| 9 | Shoegaze | 27 | 22m | 9 |
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| 10 | File Under Easy Listening | 24 | 22m | 9 |
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| 11 | Copper Blue | 26 | 17m | 6 |
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| 12 | The Jean-Paul Satre Experience | 28 | 18m | 7 |
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| 13 | Bleeding Star | 27 | 17m | 6 |
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| Pump up the Jam | 18 |
