Southern Bluffs

Forms fairly regularly, although the ice can be marginal and – as the names suggests – chandeliered. Several options exist. It has a short life so get in early if it is formed.

Wide gulley right of Chandalier. Up series of rock and ice steps. Early season route before it banks out

A good mixed winter route. Two pitches on sound rock, grade 8–10.

Straightforward with a steep finish, but quite honestly not that flash.

Another good two-pitch mixed line, if anything better than Central Buttress.

On a small outlier buttress to the north of the French pillars. Passed through a couple of overhangs with soem good exposure. Belay on gear. Walk off by scambling up and to the right.

Mixed route straight up face a few meters right of 'Camp 2015' overhang. I think more like M3+

This users the rock to the right of the "Pilier Français" arete. 1st Pitch climbing up on good holds. Good protections. The rock is fasinating. It looks loose, but you find exceptionally solid and takes gear well. Belay before it steppens. 2nd pitch. Continue to climbing directly up finally joining the arete truely. Belay just before the final section. Can belay here or finish it off. 3rd pitch. After a step, scamble to good belay Exit by traversing north and descending easier ground north of "Camp 2015"

Up the wide corner system 5m right of the waterfall. Starts up the flinty-looking slab, going straight up or angling in from the right. Then into the clean left facing corner for a few moves, then stepping right into the main corner system and heading straight up. 5 bolts plus a couple of trad placements - medium wires and cams handy. Take a long sling for a belay bollard a few metres back from the top.

About 50m right of "Splish Splash". Up the loose looking weakness. Good placements all the way and the rock is a lot better than it looks. Belay off large boulders at the top.