Shirt Front

(6 routes)

This is a series of crags with a SE aspect above ant tot he north or the Aorangi ski tow area. It has a number of buttresses and small roofs. The rock is variable with layered fractured sections. Some good hunting (and maybe some cleaning) will reveal a number of routes. Eric Duggan and Iain Burgon did 4 routes in this area in April 2015

Altitude: 
1800m
Type: 
Crag
NZMS260: 
BJ34 Ruapehu 248 494
Walk time: 
15 minutes
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Edit link
Icy Shirt Front WI2 30m
0
Iced area the forms regularly
Has been climbed - unknown
Caitlyn's Quim WI2 M3 30m
0
rising traverse, L-R finishing up rock/ mixed terrain. Similiar line possibly climbed previously.
Adam Power, Matt Wilkinson, 04/07/15
Tukino Split 16 15m
1.02
wire representing trad
On the tier above "Dimrill stairs" towards left end of "Shirt Front " bluffs. Ascends the corner and up the obvious splitter crack placing #3, #3.5, and #4 cams. Then easy moves to top where you can belay off boulders.
FFA Eric Duggan 12/04/2015
Tukino Squeeze 15 14m
1.02
wire representing trad
At the far right end of the "Shirt Front" cliffs is an obvious offwidth starting off a debris strewn ledge. Easy moves off the ground then a hard move to get established in the offwidth. Can thread the chockstone and place large cams in the back of the crack. Sling a chockstone at the top of the off width and an exposed move out onto easy ground and belay on boulders. Watch out for loose blocks at the top. Walk off to your left down a scree slope.
FFA Eric Duggan 12/04/2015
Aorangi Direct 16 15m
0
wire representing trad
In between "Tukino Split" and "Tukino Squeeze". Easy moves onto a ledge then a hard move up a crack to a overhanging wall. Head up to the right and belay off boulders. Walk off to your right.
FFA Iain Burgon 12/04/2015
Flake Route 14 20m
0
wire representing trad
Left of Aorangi Direct. Sparse wires at the start but up flakes and a good holds to cam placements and good wires higher up. Easy moves to top out over slightly overhanging rock. Belay off boulders again. Walk off to your left.
FFA Eric Duggan 12/04/2015