|Reference||Title||Grade||Length||Quality||Bolts||Gone||Natural pro||Edit link|
|1||... of Troy||16||70m||
Northern Bluff. Start at a grotto that is accessable by an easy scramble from the stream part way up the gully. 1st pitch climb up left onto an arete at first then onto slabs, and finally directly through a small overhang onto a relatively flat area. Good belays on bollards. You are west of a shallow cave. 2nd pitch is nuch easier (10 to 11) up a small step them up on brilliant holds until it eases off. Again belay on good bollards.
Don French, Helen Chapmand 3/1/215
|0||Marg Arete||7 ,7 ,7 ,7 ,7 ,||190m||
This route is an ideal family outing being of low difficulty and relatively unexposed. It is about 5 full pitches or a large number of shorter pitches. THere is plenty of scope for natural protection, but there are areas that are not protected. The rock is excellent quality. This arete climb starts low down and on the south side of the the stream draining Margaret Landing. Descending into the base using the natural walking line that traverses from the TASCMaster wall. It is a low arete, almost a fin of rock, that climbs high into the Margarets landing basin. It terminates on top of a small pinnacle at the southern side of the head wall of the Margaret's Leap circ.
David Garrity (solo)
This is the stream system draining Margaret's Leap. During winter it fills with snow, but come the thaw a large amount of high quality rock is exposed, particularly on the northern side. There is much potentual for realatively easy two pitch routes on very sound rock. Plenty of natural and trad protection options.
Best approached by traversing south under Tascmaster wall into the gully. There is a little bit os easy scrambling to get into the gully properly.