White Dragon Wall

(4 routes)

The lower tier of cliffs along the south side of the Mangatoetoenui Gorge. This good-looking crag is in a spectacular location close to the river, where a rounded shelf rises out of a narrow gorge and then up to form a steep wall.

Walk time: 
30 min

Once in the Mangatoetoenui Gorge head down the true right of the stream.

Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
1 White Gentian 17 25m
wire representing trad
Just left of ' Blue Eyes White Dragon'. Climb the central crack system up the wall. Start just left of the thin crack at the bottom to keep the grade at about 16-17. Direct start will probably be 19-20. (Place some wires in the crack first) Gear - double set of cams, hexes, wires, some microcams. Belay just below the top where 2 x #4 cams fit big cracks (otherwise climb back to the upper tier for anchors)
FFA David Garrity, Richard Knott 6/3/16
2 Blue Eyes White Dragon 16 20m
wire representing trad
A nice line just to the right of the obvious central weakness in the crag. Head straight up over a series of small bulges, with the largest right at the top. Well protected.
Richard Thomson, Salena Davie, January 2002
3 Tooth Decay 16 25m
Line of bolts several metres right of 'Blue Eyes White Dragon' Double Bolt anchors at top.
FFA Richard Knott , David Garrity 5/3/16
4 Deception 19 25m
Meander up the bolts near the right end of the White Dragon Wall. Cruxes at half height and at the top. Double bolt anchor at top.
FFA Richard Knott , David Garrity 5/3/16