White Dragon Wall

(4 routes)

The lower tier of cliffs along the south side of the Mangatoetoenui Gorge. This good-looking crag is in a spectacular location close to the river, where a rounded shelf rises out of a narrow gorge and then up to form a steep wall.

Altitude: 
1700m
Type: 
Wall
Aspect: 
North
Walk time: 
30 min
Access: 

Once in the Mangatoetoenui Gorge head down the true right of the stream.

Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
1 White Gentian 17 25m
2.01
wire representing trad
Just left of ' Blue Eyes White Dragon'. Climb the central crack system up the wall. Start just left of the thin crack at the bottom to keep the grade at about 16-17. Direct start will probably be 19-20. (Place some wires in the crack first) Gear - double set of cams, hexes, wires, some microcams. Belay just below the top where 2 x #4 cams fit big cracks (otherwise climb back to the upper tier for anchors)
FFA David Garrity, Richard Knott 6/3/16
2 Blue Eyes White Dragon 16 20m
1.02
wire representing trad
A nice line just to the right of the obvious central weakness in the crag. Head straight up over a series of small bulges, with the largest right at the top. Well protected.
Richard Thomson, Salena Davie, January 2002
3 Tooth Decay 16 25m
1.02
7bolts
Line of bolts several metres right of 'Blue Eyes White Dragon' Double Bolt anchors at top.
FFA Richard Knott , David Garrity 5/3/16
4 Deception 19 25m
3
6bolts
Meander up the bolts near the right end of the White Dragon Wall. Cruxes at half height and at the top. Double bolt anchor at top.
FFA Richard Knott , David Garrity 5/3/16