The lower tier of cliffs along the south side of the Mangatoetoenui Gorge. This good-looking crag is in a spectacular location close to the river, where a rounded shelf rises out of a narrow gorge and then up to form a steep wall.
Altitude:
1700m
Type:
Wall
Aspect:
North
Walk time:
30 min
Access:
Once in the Mangatoetoenui Gorge head down the true right of the stream.
| Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Quality | Bolts | Gone | Natural pro | Link to edit content | ||
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| 1 | White Gentian | 17 | 25m |
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Just left of ' Blue Eyes White Dragon'. Climb the central crack system up the wall. Start just left of the thin crack at the bottom to keep the grade at about 16-17. Direct start will probably be 19-20. (Place some wires in the crack first) Gear - double set of cams, hexes, wires, some microcams. Belay just below the top where 2 x #4 cams fit big cracks (otherwise climb back to the upper tier for anchors)
FFA David Garrity, Richard Knott 6/3/16
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| 2 | Blue Eyes White Dragon | 16 | 20m |
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A nice line just to the right of the obvious central weakness in the crag. Head straight up over a series of small bulges, with the largest right at the top. Well protected.
Richard Thomson, Salena Davie, January 2002
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| 3 | Tooth Decay | 16 | 25m |
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7 |
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Line of bolts several metres right of 'Blue Eyes White Dragon'
Double Bolt anchors at top.
FFA Richard Knott , David Garrity 5/3/16
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| 4 | Deception | 19 | 25m |
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6 |
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Meander up the bolts near the right end of the White Dragon Wall. Cruxes at half height and at the top. Double bolt anchor at top.
FFA Richard Knott , David Garrity 5/3/16
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