Lower Mangatoetoenui

(1 route)

Two minutes past Leonard Cohen Memorial Buttress is a big face with a waterfall that spits out from the upper Mangatoetoenui Gorge.

Walk time: 

From the lodge walk down (East) along the bluffs towards Mount Ngauruhoe and find the big waterfall just past Leonard Cohen Memorial Buttress.

-39.273410000945, 175.622457769690
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
1 Whale Rider 17,19,10 80m
4bolts wire representing trad
This route allows you to climb past two waterfalls to the upper plateau of the Mangatoetoenui George (Dragon Wall, Rehab wall etc). It's one of the most scenic adventure outings in Tukino. The gear is good but before you head out make sure you agree on some form of non verbal communication with your belayer: you can't hear or see each other past the first pitch.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad

Start out far left and traverse along the lowest ledge above the overhang. Once you see the leaning corner above you, find several good small cam placements to protect the crux and head straight up over the bulge. You'll see a belay ledge with bolted anchors on your right.


Traverse diagonally right along 4 bolts to an exhilarating finish just above the waterfall. Once over the lip, scramble to the top to a bolted anchor.
It's possible to walk down from here using a gully out left towards Leonard Cohen Memorial Buttress.


From the top of the second pitch rappel down into the top basin of the waterfall. Build a trad anchor across the river for your belayer, climb out and scramble along the spine to the upper plateau. Enjoy the views! Bonus points if you can keep your rope dry..
It's possible to walk back down from the upper plateau to the bowl of the lower waterfall by scrambling down a short rock step further up and right.

Wim Coosemans & Jessica Thorn, Nov. 2020